Column w/GARDENCOLLAGE

I am so excited to share that I'll be doing a column with one of my favorite online sites, Garden Collage! Each month or so will be an informative skincare story along with how to's, tips, and product recommendations; focusing on eco-friendly and clean beauty. 

You can read my first post here!

Garden Collage curates stories about the aesthetic value of gardens, plant-based beauty products, environmental policy, the farm to table movement, DIY gardening tips, travel journals, and other fresh takes on the value of gardening in our modern world. Their mission is to bring back the garden into peoples’ lives and inspire readers to incorporate a new, dynamic concept of “gardening” based on perspectives from a global community of gardeners. From the farm to the fire escape, they cover it all. Prepare to be INSPIRED.

REVIEW: Shamanuti

Shamanuti is a brand from Massachusetts with a focus on organic plant-based ingredients. The prices are affordable and they have sample kits available for you to purchase before investing in full sizes- something I wish all companies would offer! You can check those out here. From the items I tried, these are my favorites from the collection..

Seaweed Toner  4 OZ  $28 USD                             

Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe) Leaf Juice, Ascophyllum nodosum (Organic Kelp) Extract, Aphanizomenon Flos Aquae (Organic Blue Green Algae) Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Glucolactone, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), Salix nigra (Black Willowbark) Extract, Sodium Chloride (Dead Sea Salt), Polysorbate, Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Essential Oil, Citric Acid

Face mists, toners, and basically any liquid product I can spritz on my face are my favorite category of skincare products, so I had to try this out first. You can use this on any part of the body, but your face (no matter what skin type you have) will love it. Organic aloe is the first ingredient which is soothing and refreshing, followed by organic kelp and algaes which act as water binders and antioxidants. Other highlights are the hyaluronic acid, an effective hydrator and black willowbark which is an anti-bacterial. This has a subtle sweet scent that evaporates quickly. 

Organic Face Oil   .5 OZ  $34 USD

Oenotherera Biennis(Evening Primrose) Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry seed) oil, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus carota (Carrot) Oil

This face oil is only six ingredients, but they are all superstars! Inside the glass amber dropper, is primrose which is skin-soothing and hydrating, followed by cranberry seed oil- which has potent antioxidant abilities because it is a rich source of polyphenols. Jojoba is a skin soother, with skin restoring properties, and the meadowfoam oil is superbly hydrating. Finishing up is the major antioxidant vitamin E and nourishing carrot oil. The smell is reminiscent of opening a bottle of new vitamins, but nothing offensive, and goes away within a minute. This oil blend soaks in quickly and is beneficial for even the most sensitive skin & around the delicate eye area. I'd use whatever is left on my fingertips to massage into my cuticles, double duty!

The essential serum   O.5 oZ  $42 USD

Rosa damascena (Rose) Distillate, Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe Vera) Juice, Propylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), Emulsifying Wax, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam Seed) Oil, Vaccinium myrtillus (Organic Bilberry) Extract, Saccharum officinarum (Organic Sugar Cane) Extract, Acer saccharinum (Organic Sugar Maple) Extract, Citrus auranium dulcis (Organic Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus medica limonum (Organic Lemon) Extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon (Organic Cranberry) Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium Benzoate, Glucolactone, CoQ10 (Coenzyme Q10), Beta Carotene (Pro Vitamin A), Retinol Palmitate (Vitamin A), Alpha Lipoic Acid DL- Thioctic Acid, dl-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Daucus carota (Carrot) Oil, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide Gum), Citric Acid

Housed in an amber glass bottle with a dropper applicator, this serum has a faint herb smell that fades quickly. The base is a rose distillate, aloe, and vegetable glycerin. (Note: Rosa Damascena could potentially  be irritating in an oil form, however this is a distillate so I consider it safe and beneficial when used in this small amount.)  Next we have DMAE for skin firming, Meadowfoam Seed Oil for skin conditioning, and Bilberry as an antioxidant. Sugar cane and sugar maple are supposed to be a gentler alternative to alpha hydroxy acids, however I couldn't find much data to support that claim- they are however wonderful humectants. Orange, lemon and cranberry extracts are next; orange and lemon aren't my favorite ingredients due to the potential risk of irritation and senstitivty to the sun, even though the amount used is small - I would still sample this before investing in a larger size to make sure your skin likes it. The rest of the ingredient list reads great: glucolactone (improves cell turnover), coQ10 and alpha lipoic acid (anti aging antioxidants), Vitamin A (has dozens of benefits) and niacinamide (brightening). Due to the vitamin A and citrus extracts, I would use this at night only. The texture is very light, soaks in quickly but skin is left feeling nourished. Very dry skin may like a face oil or cream on top of this. 

CREME NO 5   2 OZ  $38 USD

Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Hibiscus Flower Extract, Coconut Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Whole Elder Flower, White lily Emulsifying Wax, Lecithin, Sea Kelp, Palm Stearic Acid, Vegetable glycerin, Vitamin E, Vitamin B3, Pro Vitamin A, Vitamin C Ester, Pro-Vitamin B5, Xanthan Gum, Rosemary Extract, Amino Acids, Neem Oil

This milky lotion liquid hybrid comes in an amber glass bottle with a pump, and has a delicate floral scent. It is in a base of soothing aloe and nourishing coconut oil. Hibiscus, rose hip, and elder flower are antioxidants that also work to support capillary strength, calm and condition the skin. A great mix of essential vitamins and amino acids round out this formula to make it an excellent option for normal to dry skin.              

CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER EYE GEL  1 oz, $24 USD                                                                                                                  

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Witch Hazel, Gluconolacctone, Cranberry Seed Oil, Cucumber Distillate, Chamomile Distillate, Carbomer, Triethanoloamine, Sodium Benzoate

This eye gel comes in a dark green opaque plastic bottle with a pump applicator. The base is a soothing aloe and glycerin. Next up is the witch hazel, its an astringent antioxidant but can be sensitizing when used regularly, so I'd save this to use just a few times a week instead of daily. Cranberry seed oil is  a rich source of polyphenols with as skin-restoring benefits and chamomile and cucumber are excellent anti-inflammatories. Try keeping this in the fridge for even more depuffing action, or even as a cooling eye mask. 

ORGANIC MIST  4 oZ  $28 USD

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Organic Aloe Extract of Mentha Piperita [Organic Peppermint] Leaf, Organic Glycerin, Organic Alcohol Extracts of Safix Aloe [Organic White Willow] Bark (and) Vaccinium Myrtillus [Organic Bilberry] Fruit (and) Saccharum Officinarum [Organic Sugar Cane] (and) Acer Saccarinum [Organic Sugar Maple] Granules (and) Citrus Aurantium Dulcis

Another mist, but this one I would keep for body only, as this contains a high amount of peppermint which could irritate the face/eyes. I loved this as a body and foot spray, especially after a hot day, it was refreshing and cooling. This is in an organic aloe base, with added skin soothers and antioxidants. 

Head to toe spray lotion  6 OZ  $34 USD

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Coconut Oil, Rooibos Tea Extract, Emulsifying Wax, Vegetable Glycerin, Palm Stearic Acid, Jojoba Oil, Neroli Hydrosol, Olive Oil, Vitamin E, DMAE, MSM, Xantham Gum, Willow Bark Extract, Rosemary Extract, Neem Oil

A body lotion in a spray bottle, very neat! This is packaged in a hard plastic bottle with a spray top. The scent is a subtle orangey floral, most likely from the Neroli Hydrosol, which does linger a little. The texture is perfect, not oily, but not overly creamy or sticky, this is a true lotion texture. The ingredients tend to separate but a quick shake blends it all back together. Following the base of refreshing and soothing aloe and coconut oil, is the rooibos tea extract (a calming antioxidant) and some more plant based hydrators. This is fun to use and smells lovely. 

REVIEW: Oskia

A client of mine was raving about an eye cream she bought at Selfridges in London, which was my first introduction to cult favorite, Oskia Skincare. It's not sold here in the US (yet!) but it is available at some of the best beauty stores and spas across the UK, as well on the Oskia website where they will ship worldwide. The line is based around the skincare benefits of MSM (methyl sulfonyl methane) a natural form of organic sulphur, which you've probably seen in supplements at your health food store. This ingredient (along with many other superstar ingredients) are found in most of Oskia's products, along with an MSM oral supplement. 

You can read all about the benefits of MSM here. And take a look at some researched studies here,  here and here. I didn't try every product in the line, but instead got a selection of the best sellers. These are really impressive, active products that I hope make their way into the states soon- but in the meantime they are absolutely worth the international shipping costs due to the unique formulas.

RENAISSANCE CLEANSING GEL                                                                                       SIZE 100ML, PRICE £29.50 or $39.33 USD

Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aqua, Cetearyl Olivate, Sucrose Laurate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sucrose Palmitate, Parfum (Natural), Geraniol*, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Citronellol**, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lactobacillus/Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Ferment Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sucrose Stearate, Linalool**, Retinyl Palmitate, CI77491 (natural iron oxide), Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate. **Component of natural essential oils

This is a unique product, its a pink, rich gel that turns into an oil, then turns milky once you get water mixed with it. It does have a soothing subtle chamomile & rose scent. However, if you don't like oil cleansers, you probably won't like this- it leaves the skin clean but doesn't give that 'tight' feeling after using foamy or water soluble gel cleansers. I'm not going to dive into the ingredients because cleansers aren't left on the skin very long to have a huge impact except for cleansing the skin, but its suitable for all skin types, and this will absolutely dissolve makeup. 

RENAISSANCE 360 (brightening lotion)
SIZE40ML, PRICE £65.00 (or $86 USD)

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Zinc Oxide, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Myristyl Myristate, Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Galactoarabinan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Arbutin, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glutathione, Phytic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Silica, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Alcohol, Parfum (Natural Fragrance), Lecithin, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool PAO = 9M

This is packaged in an airless pump (awesome!) and the texture is light, but nourishing, and has a very subtle earthy floral scent that goes away within a minute. This does have an spf 8 from the zinc oxide, so I would apply separate spf if you are going to be out and about. Great for all skin types that are looking for a brightening lightweight lotion. Among the first few ingredients are some great plant based antioxidant oils followed by: 

• MSM reduces inflammation, and increases the production of pheomelanin, to reduce pigmentation, also acts as an anti-inflammatory and calms breakouts.
• HYALURONIC ACID hydrates, plumps and softens
• GALACTORABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
• LUPIN SEED (Collangeneer) boosts Collagen I synthesis and the formation and quality of the collagen matrix
• NANO BRIGHT Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
• ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES, rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4% for an even skin tone and reduced hyper-pigmentation. (OSKIA uses 2%)
• ENCAPSULATED MULTI-VITAMINS: A, C, E, and F
• ENCAPSULATED 6% VITAMIN C powerful anti-oxidant properties and boosts collagen
• OPUNTIA CACTUS EXTRACT calms irritated skin

RENAISSANCE BRIGHTLIGHT (brightening serum)
SIZE30ML, PRICE £85.00 or $113 USD  

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C Phosphate), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Zinc Glycinate, Arbutin, Glutathione, Lepidium Sativum (Cress) Sprout Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Rhodinols (Natural Rhodinol), Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Cymbopogon Martini (Organic Palmarosa) Oil, Anthemis Nobilis (Organic Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena (Organic Rose) Flower Oil, Linolenic/Linoleic Acid, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum (Ho) Wood Oil, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Pelargonium Graveolens (Organic Bourbon Geranium) Oil, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Juniperus Mexicana (Cedar) Wood Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Organic Clove) Bud Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Bisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Alcohol denat., Phenoxyethanol*, Citronellol**, Geraniol**, Linalool**, Eugenol**, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)

This orange colored serum comes in a glass bottle with a dropper applicator, with a scent that is lighter but similar to the Renaissance 360 product mentioned above. It dries quickly with no stickiness. This is a serum targeted for brightening, and it does contain a small amount of some essential oils, so SPF layered on top is mandatory! The second ingredient is a 6% phosphate form of vitamin c, followed by: 

• NANOBRIGHT:Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
• ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4%. (Oskia uses 2%)
• MSM boosts the power of Glutathione and increases the production of pheomelanin, the type of melanin that is found in fair-skinned people, relative to eumelanin, the darker type of melanin.
• 5% NIACINAMIDE (Vitamin B3) reduces post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, and increasing over-all skin lightening
• ZINC GLYCINATE stimulates the formation of an antioxidant protein to bind Copper and inhibit the production of melanin and reduces Tyrosinase.
• PASSIONFRUIT & GRAPE AHAS with PUMPKIN & PAPAYA ENZYMES gently exfoliate
• FERMENTED MINERAL POLYPEPTIDE MIX Oskia's own fermented mineral complex delivers Magnesium, Iron, Zinc and Silicon in bio-available form for a full skin cell health boost.
• PREBIOTICS help to protect the skin’s natural flora for optimum skin health by preventing the colonization of harmful bacteria.

EYE WONDER 
SIZE10ML, PRICE £48.00 or $64 USD

Ingredients: Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Whey Protein, Zinc Glycine, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Limonium Narbonense Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate Lysate, Galactoarabinan, Panthenol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Lactic Acid. 

This active eye serum is lightweight and soaks in fast. It uses a base of Rosa Damascena Flower Water but i didnt notice any scent, and there is no added fragrance. Dry skin types may need a lotion or cream on top of this for more moisture when applying makeup , but I found my concealer worked fine on top of it. 

• VITAMIN B3 (Niacinamide) reduces water loss, boosts fatty acid and ceramides, stimulates new fibroblasts, inhibits pigmentation
• VITAMIN E anti-oxidant 
• VITAMIN P strengthens the capillary walls to help reduce the appearance of dark circles. 
• MSM the most bio available form of sulphur, aids collagen production.
• ARNICA AND LAMINARIA COMPLEX rich in decongestive Vitamin P strengthens capillary walls to reduce puffiness and dark circles
• MILK PEPTIDES stimulating collagen synthesis, increasing Hyaluronic Acid production, increasing cell-to-cell communication
• GALACTOARABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
• O3 STRESSED YEAST LYSATE helpS reduce UV induced damage
• ZINC GLYCINE COMPLEX helps reduce UV induced pigmentation.
• SWISS APPLE STEM CELLS are touted to prolong the life of healthy skin cells and protect DNA. there hasn't been a ton of research in this area, so even though this is in here, I'm counting on the other proven ingredients to work
• HYALURONIC ACID & BIOSACCHARIDES for hydration

REVIEW: Rohr Remedy

When I come across a few unfamiliar ingredients in a skincare product, my interest is peaked, and that was the start of my excitement in exploring Rohr Remedy - a brand from Australia based on combining unique, wild harvested native ingredients from traditional Australian Bush medicine. The complete line, currently 8 products, is free from parabens, phthalates, petrochemicals, propylene glycol, sulphates, synthetic fragrances, bisphenol A (BPA), artificial colours, aluminium and silicones. The gorgeous packaging of all the products come in boxes of modern pastel shades, and the actual products are in super luxe, glossy black bottles and tubes. All of this, and nothing over $36 USD!

This photo is taken from Rohr Remedy website.

The following excerpt is from Australian Geographic: Australian bush medicine, much like the bush itself is still very much a mystery.  "A lot of information is lost," says Dr Evelin Tiralongo a pharmacist and expert in complementary medicine from Griffith University in Queensland. "[In Aboriginal culture], nothing is written down; instead, it's passed on through singing and dancing ceremonies, which are becoming increasingly rare."  According to Evelin most Aboriginal medical treatments were derived from food. "A big part of maintaining their health was just eating right," she says. When Aboriginal people did fall sick, they used plants in a variety of ways to quell their ills. Some plants, like were crushed, heated and applied to the skin. Others were boiled and inhaled, and occasionally drunk. There were also saps which were directly smeared on the skin, and barks that were smoked or burned. Professor Joanne Jamie, a medicinal chemist from Macquarie University, in Sydney has compiled a database on Aboriginal plants. Many of those plants, she found, contained anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory compound that are known to western medicine. "When plants are used in a customary way, there is a far greater success rate in them having biological activity," she says. "The plants that were used by the Aborigines are very likely to be useful to us."
 

Rosalina Face Cleanser, $18, 1.69fl oz
Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropul Betaine, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodiumsulfosuccinate, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, White Willow (Salix Alba) bark extract, Quandong (Santalum acuminatum) extract, Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil, Jasmine (Jasminum sambac) essential oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Packaged in a black squeeze tube with a flip up top (perfect for travel!) this cleanser might seem small in size at first glance, but a tiny pea size amount creates more then enough slightly foamy lather for the whole face...a little goes a long way. This aloe and water based cleanser's highlight is Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil which is a natural astringent. The product has a faint, subtle natural floral scent, and rinses beautifully with minimal effort, skin is left clean but not tight. This will remove makeup very well, and is suitable for all skin types.
 

Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Face Serum, $36, 1.69fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis), Kakadu plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana), Tamarind (Tamarindus indica) seed extract, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hectorite, Allantoin, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) essential oil, Xanthum gum; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

This product comes in an airtight glass bottle with a pump, perfect for keeping the ingredients active and stable. The serum feels like a light gel, it soaks into the skin quickly, doesn't feel sticky, and smells faintly of geranium, which dissipates in a few minutes. The extract from the Kakadu plum, (the third ingredient) is rich in vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant which increases collagen production (wrinkle reduction), reduces skin discolorations, strengthens the skins barrier, reduces inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, so this is a great serum for the daytime. Listed next is Tamarind Seed extract (natural source of hyaluronic acid for hydration), silk amino acid (water binding antioxidant), vitamin e (skin healing antioxidant), allantoin (soothing anti-irritant), and geranium oil (antimicrobial). Geranium oil is a fragrant oil that can be an irritant, but when used in small amounts like it is here, there is no cause for concern. This is an excellent vitamin c serum for all skin types!

Lilly Pilly and Omega 3 Face Moisturizer $24, 1.69fl oz
Aqua (purified water), Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) oil, Macadamia (Macadamia ternifolia) nut oil, Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, Glycerin, Lilly Pilly (Syzygium leuhmanii) extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydrolysed Oats (Avena sativa), Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Stearyl Glutamate, Allantoin, Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) essential oil, Rose (Rosa centifolia) essential oil, Australian Sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) wood oil; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Packaged in a squeeze tube, this is a lightweight lotion with a subtle sweet earthy scent. It soaks in quickly but leaves skin feeling hydrated with no surface residue or stickiness, perfect for normal to dry skin not prone to breakouts. On the list, following water, comes two esters derived from olive oil (rich in antioxidants), then three hydrating oils- rice bran, macadamia and sweet almond. Next up is glycerin (my favorite humectant), and the rare Lilly Pilly. Typing that is almost as fun as saying it out loud! Lilly Pilly, a bush medicine of Indigenous Australians for internal and external healing, is a rich source of vitamin c- it also assists the repair of weathered skin and the astringent property provides gentle exfoliation. Hydrolyses Oats is the anti-irritant and we also see another appearance of silk amino acid, vitamin e and allantoin. There is a small amount of fragrant essential oils, but the tiny amounts are not cause for concern however for very sensitive skin, always do a test patch first.
 

Boab and Rosehip with Vitamin E Oil, $30, 1.69fl oz
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (fractionated Coconut oil), organic Boab (Adansonia gregorii) oil, organic Rosehip (Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa) seed oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Frankincense (Boswellia cateri) essential oil

This rich, nourishing oil comes in a glass bottle with a dropper style applicator. Excellent formal for super dry skin, or even on the body as a little goes a long way. The superstars in this are the Boab oil, which contains high levels of Vitamin C and Calcium, along with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to encourage smoother skin, and during pregnancy help prevent and manage stretch marks. Vitamin A rich rosehip oil provides excellent healing and slows early aging. The last ingredient, frankincense oil, is a fragrant component, but when used in tiny amounts, there isn't cause for concern. As always, patch test for sensitivity if you are on the sensitive side.

Gumbi Gumbi Lip Balm, $12, 0.5fl oz
Lanolin, Castor (Ricinus communis) oil, Beeswax, Gumbi Gumbi (Pittosporum phylliraeoides) infused Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Peppermint (Mentha piperita) essential oil, Orange (Citrus sinensis) essential oil

Packaged in a chic glossy black squeeze tube, this balm combines the classic apothecary formula of castor oil, lanolin and Vitamin E with Saponin-rich Gumbi Gumbi, which has antibacterial and antiviral properties and can also help prevent colds and flu, aids repair of cracked lips. The peppermint and orange oils will give this a slight hint of flavor and smell.
 

Australian Wildflower Deodorant, $12, 1.0 fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bi-carbonate of Soda, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil, Kunzea ambigua, Fragonia (Agonis fragrans) essential oil, Carrageenan/Seaweed (Chondrus crispus) extract, Xanthum Gum, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (preservatives)

Normally I shy away from deodorants that are in a rollerball applicator, because that tells me the deodorant is a liquid and liquid deodorants are usually sticky and seem to stay sticky on me. This surprisingly kept me dry, and it dries within a few minutes of applying, no stickiness! The essential oils I had never heard of before, they are from Australian wildflowers Rosalina, Kunzea and Fragonia, used by Indigenous Australians for healing, and have deodorising and antibacterial properties. The scent for me is like fresh cut herbs, but doesn't linger more then a few minutes.

photo taken from www.rohrremedy.com

Honey Myrtle Body Wash, $21, 16.9 fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera(Aloe barbadensis), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Quandong (Santalum acuminatum) fruit extract, Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) fruit extract, White Willow (Salix alba) bark extract, Honey Myrtle (Melaleuca teretifolia) branch/leaf oil, Pink Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) peel oil, Xanthum Gum; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

This is a gel body wash, housed in bottle with with a pump. It smells HEAVENLY- a citrusy, clean green scent that I didn't want to rinse off! Left skin clean and refreshed, but not tight. As for the ingredients, they are all super gentle cleansing agents, and combines the anti bacterial power of Honey Myrtle with healing properties of the Quandong plant. With body washes, the antioxidant content doesn't matter so much since its rinsed down the drain quickly, but hey, every little bit helps. 

photo taken from www.rohrremedy.com

Desert Lime Body Moisturizer, $24, 8.45fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (fractionated Coconut oil), Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Olive (Olea europaea) oil, Coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, Glycerin, Desert Lime (Citrus glauca) extract, Giant Kelp (Macrocystis pyriferae) extract, Wattle (Acacia dealbata) flower oil, Mandarin (Citrus reticulata) oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Black Pepper (Piper nigrum) seed oil, Hydrolysed Oats (Avena sativa), Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Similar packaging to the body wash, this body lotion is a lotion texture but stays slightly moist for about ten minutes after application, which i love. but also could just be because i use a huge amount when moisturizing. With a smell so fresh and citrusy, its easy to just keep slathering more on! Hydrating coconut and olive oils nourish, and the Desert Lime extract assists skin repair due to a high level of antioxidants, including Vitamin C, and was in traditional use by Indigenous Australians for its revitalizing qualities. The rich nutrients from Australia’s Giant Kelp help retain skin moisture and softness. I need a uplifting scent when applying body lotion, and this lingered for some time after but its subtle, not strong enough to compete with any perfume you may put on. Another gorgeous product! 

THE 101: LED light therapy

LED = Light Emitting Diodes. This is one of my favorite technologies the past few years that I include with almost all of my facial and skincare services, it can even be done as a seperate stand alone treatment without a facial for those that want to come in more often. LED can be done a number of ways. In an office setting, we use the OmniLux LED device it to treat aging skin, acne, and rosacea, and they can be done in a series (of weekly treatments) or just once in a while with your facial, depending on what we are treating. The treatments are painless, relaxing, have no downtime, and safe for almost everyone unless you have a history of epilepsy or on medications that cause light sensitivity like tetracycline.

Now onto the science on HOW this awesome light therapy works! The general function is the LED penetrates through the epidermis into the dermis layer of the skin, energizing the fibroblast cells that are responsible for producing collagen. Collagen and Elastin are produced in cells called fibroblasts and Inside these cells is a smaller cellular structure called mitochondria. Mitochondria are responsible for converting nutrients into an energy carrier known scientifically as Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP). This (ATP) fuels the cell's activities; it basically gives the cells the needed energy to do their job. This is the reason Mitochondria are frequently referred to as the powerhouse of the cell. LED sends light rays into the Fibroblast cells, which in turn excite the Mitochondria into producing in some cases up to 10 times more ATP. This fuels the cell's activities, which causes more of the needed Collagen and Elastin to be produced, as well as other needed materials for the skin.  Over time the dermis layer fills up with collagen pushing the fold of the wrinkle out. Collagen helps to plump up the skin thus diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. Nice! The process is similar to plant photosynthesis. the light emitted by the LED is absorbed by epidermal cells and produces a cascade of events. As the light passes through the skin, different components of cells are affected by various wavelengths, stimulating certain beneficial effects:  

-stimulates tissue granulation and connective tissue, which is part of the healing process of wounds, ulcers, and imflamed tissue
-reduces MMP-1 (collagenase) in the papillary dermis, therefore increasing collagen deposition and improving skin texture
-reduction in small blood vessels; infrared increases vascularity by increasing formation of new capillaries, a process called angiogenesis.

There also is blue LED light, which can be great for skin types that are sensitive or allergic to topical antibacterial products. The blue LED has its own set of benefits, it causes the development of oxygen radicals that kill P. acnes bacteria without damaging healthy skin. For acne, I recommend using a combo of blue and red devices. The red treats the inflammation and redness and the blue treats the bacterial component. 

Here are some great studies showing the benefits of LED, but a quick google search can lead you to hundreds more!

http://media.wix.com/ugd/d80b7e_763ee0dae52e03de53c81b25e9487799.pdf
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/full/10.1021/cg8000703
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16414908
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4479368/
 
Another way to get the benefits of LED is to try an 'at home' device, which have been gaining popularity the last few years. While an FDA approved LED device for home use will usually have similar specs as the professional devices we use in our office, the main difference will be the number of LED's being used. For example, the machine in our office will have hundreds of LEDS, while an at home device will usually have 25 to 50, so the in office professional treatments will gave you faster results. However if you are diligent with using your at home device, it can absolutely improve your skin, and even be used to prolong the results of your professional in-office treatments. I feel the decision on professional treatments vs using an LED at home, comes down to a few things to consider: 

-Time: In office treatment takes about 20 minutes once a week (or twice, depending on how fast you want to finish your series) but at home LED can take up to an hour to treat the full face. However, if you only want to treat a small area of the face, for example eye area, or random acne prone areas, then your home treatment time won't be a huge factor. In office treatments mean you are making a trip to the office, where as using an at home device gives you more flexibility.
-Professional guidance for more serious conditions. If you struggle with rosacea or acne, having professional treatments and monitoring your condition, combined with an effective at home regimen may give you faster, or more effective results. 
-Cost. Office treatments cost between $75 to $150 per session, where as the initial investment of a home-use LED device will run around $300 to $500.

Two great devices I recommend often are the Baby Quasar and Light Stim. Recently, I started playing around with a new FDA-approved device from Truth Vitality that has three different modes, red, blue and ultrasound. These are used independently as in they don't work all at the same time, which is nice so you can treat separate areas with the specific modality you need. As for how the ultrasound works, it enhances product penetration and increases fibroblastic activity and collagen formation. You can read more about how the ultrasound works directly from them here. So far I have been really impressed with this device! It's a great price, and easy to use. I will report back on the ultrasound benefits, as they are cumulative, and I'm giving it a full 3 month test run!