Fashion trends are a funny thing, and I’ll be the first to admit I’ve had my share of trendy impulse buys. Skincare trends, like anything else, come and go - but with such a heavy push from advertising, social media, bloggers, and beauty stores- this is one trend I foresee sticking around for a while. Some of these brands have exceptionally well formulated products (Dr Jart, Amore Pacific, SK-II), and will most likely remain staples at popular stores like Sephora. I picked some of the ‘best-sellers’ from a few different Korean beauty specialty websites to review.
IMAGE: sephora
A few more thoughts...
While there are absolutely some unique and new ingredients that have come out of Korea (think snail secretions and fermented everything) they are not only to able acquired and used by brands made in Korea. Also to note, a lot of these unique ingredients don't have much research, if any, behind them yet to back up the claims.
In my opinion, the generalization that Korean women (and lots of other asian nationalities) seem to have more youthful skin then other nationalities is most likely because they seem to be more dilligent with their sun protection, which would explain a LOT.
A lot of Korean items I am seeing are just renamed! For instance, 'essences' are very similar to toners (not the astringent toners that may come to mind, but the hydrating ones), 'patches' are usually masks, and 'sleeping masks' are usually thick night creams.
MIZON ALL-IN-ONE SNAIL REPAIR CREAM
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Dimethicone, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glyocol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Rh-oligopeptide-1, Propylene Glycol, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Beta-glucan, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Disodium Edta
The company claims that the first ingredient, the snail secretion, makes up 92% of the product, and will reduce acne scars. Also to note, this company, along with many other brands use snail secretion in different forms- masks, serums, night cream, you name it. The ONE and only published research I could find on this used snail secretion from a little creature called “Snail Cryptomphalus Aspersa” or SCA. They concluded daily application of topical products tested on 25 people containing SCA proved effective and well tolerated for improvement in some wrinkles but did not report a significant difference in the quality of their skin. What species of snail goo is this brand using- is it the same as the snails from the study? Are the snails harmed? Too many unanswered questions, not enough research. This also contains some ingredients that could potentially clog pores, AND it is also packaged in a jar, which means some of the actual researched ingredients (even in the tiny amounts that are present here) can go bad quickly anyway. Bottom Line: I wouldn't recommend using snail products until more research is shown that this is proven to be beneficial.
BANILA CO. CLEAN IT ZERO
Mineral Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, Polyethylene, Butylene Glycol, Water, Rubus Suavissimus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinesis Root Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Leaf Extract, BHT, Butylparaben, CI 16255, CI 15985, Fragrance
if you wear a lot of makeup and find there is still residue after you wash, then a ‘double cleanse’ or using a 'precleanser' may be right for you. All ‘double cleanse’ means is using two different products to wash, the first pre cleanse being geared towards removing makeup (like cleansing oils or balms) and the second to cleanse the skin once all that makeup is off and to remove any traces of the first cleanse (usually gel or foamy formulas). This particular product would be the first step in your double cleanse to get off makeup, it is mineral oil base and comes in solid form, but starts to liquify into a oil when you start rubbing it together. I wouldnt rely on this as my only cleanser because it does leave a little residue, and needs a gel or foam to really get off any traces of it. There are some antioxidants present, but in a cleanser those ingredients are useless because they don't stay on the skin long to do much. This product has a faint citrus smell and does contain a small amount fragrance. Bottom Line: If your need to thoroughly remove makeup and your cleanser isnt cutting it, this is a safe and effective option as a precleanser.
CAOLION BLACKHEAD O2 BUBBLE PORE PACK
Water, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Ethyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysorbate 60, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour, Charcoal Powder, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Peg/ppg-18/18dimethicone, Peg-100 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, C12-16 Alcohols, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (licorice) Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Trideceth-6, Disodium Edta
There are quite a few products referred to as ‘packs’, which is usually just another name for mask! The first few ingredients are what gives this product the fizzy bubbling sensation on the skin, then follows some cleansing detergents and some emollients. The inclusion of charcoal has oil absorbing properties. The directions say to apply it to the skin, wait for it to start getting fizzy, massage it in (there is a slight grit to this, so you will get a mild exfoliation), wait a few more minutes then rinse. Bottom Line: This won't do much for your blackheads, but it's a fun option as a mask for normal to oily skin as a way to exfoliate and absorb excess oil.
CREMORLAB MINERAL TREATMENT ESSENCE
Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (matricaria) Flower Water, Saccharomyces Ferment, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Water, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Betaine, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Pvm/ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol
Essences are used like toners, they are liquids that are applied after cleansing but before lotions/creams/serums. These ingredients can absolutely be found in those products also, but for normal to oily skin which normally shies away from creamy textures, essences are a great way to give the skin a dose of vitamins, antioxidants, and hydration. The Rosa Centifolia Flower Water which makes up most of this essence, is different from the widely used traditional rose or rose oils which are a huge concern for irritation- this one works as an antioxidant. Niacinamide, which is prevalent in a lot of essences I looked at is an amazing cell-communicating ingredient with a ton of anti-aging properties. The rest of the list reads as safe with proven anti-irritants, and more antioxidants. Bravo! Bottom Line: Safe and effective for all skin types, essences can be a nice booster before your current routine. I'll be using these types of products in the humid weather instead of a lotion.
PRIMERA MIRACLE SEED ESSENCE
Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium Edta, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Methyl Gluceth-20, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-hexanediol.
This is an essence geared towards dry skin, as the first ingredient (nelumbo nucifera germ extract) which will make up most the product, is a humectant and will attract moisture. The niacinamide in this comes in as second on the list, one of my favorite cell communicating ingredients that can even out skin tone and improve elasticity. Followed by some more hydrating ingredients like glycerin and sodium hyaluronate, and finishing with a ferment (antioxidant) and some more preservatives. Bottom Line: Safe, effective, and could be a great booster for dry skin before your other moisturizers/treatments, or even used solo.
MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE
Saccharomyces ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium -51, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Betaine, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Pirper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Beta vulgaris (Beet) Root extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Trehalose, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Raffinose, Tromethamine, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, 1, 2 - Hexanediol, Caprytyl Glycol, Hexapeptide - 9 Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
The first two ingredients are ferments that are skin conditioning agents, also with limited research saying they have some antioxidant capabilities. Next up is a propanediol (humectant) and the superstar niacinamide. The rest of the list has some additional antioxidants, anti-irritants, and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: This is a great way for all skin types to hydrate and give your skin a dose of necessary ingredients used solo or before applying a cream/lotion or serum. If you choose to add an essence or toner to your routine, try putting a few drops in your palm and swiping it onto the skin. Using a cotton pad tends to waste a lot of product.
TONYMOLY PANDA DREAM EYE PATCH
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sorbitol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Erythritol, Trehalose, Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Pulp Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
I love seeing glycerin and niacinamide within the first five ingredients, but the excitement stops there. Next listed is a few preservatives and slip agents followed by ‘fragrance’. If fragrance was the last ingredient, I wouldn’t be concerned, but I dont want to see it before the nice array of antioxidants and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: I personally wont be using these cutesy eye patches due to the excessive amount of fragrance, but if your skin isn't sensitive to fragrance, these can absolutely be a refreshing and hydrating treat for your under eyes.
RE:P BIO FRESH MASK WITH REAL CALMING HERB
Water, Kaoline, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexadiol, Artemisia Annua Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Triticum Spelta Seed Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Powder, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Safflower Yellow, Gardenia Red, Fragrance
This is a kaolin clay based mask, and Kaolin has absorbent properties which makes it a nice option for oily skin. Following the clay come a few emmolient and emulsifying ingredients to keep this product creamy and in its solid form. The herbs/plant extracts and the rest of the ingredients following are safe in low concentrations, but antioxidants and anti-inflammatories work best when they are left on the skin, instead of rinsing off them, which you have to do when using a mask! The inclusion fragrance and coloring are miniscule amounts which arent cause for concern since they are the last three ingredients listed. Bottom Line: This mask can absolutely help control excess oil when used once or twice a week without overdrying.
MIZON GOOD NIGHT WHITE SLEEPING MASK
Aqua, Cyclomethicone, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Trehalose, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp Copolymer, Triethanolmaine, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Broussonetia Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Pantethine, Placental Protein, Natto Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Disodium Edta, Methyl Parabven, Propyl Paraben, Ci17200, Ci42090, Fragrance
Sleeping masks or sleeping packs appear to be thick night creams, normally geared towards dry skin. The high amount of cyclomethicone (a silicone emollient) in this Mizon product is going to prevent moisture loss without suffocating skin. Next up is niacinamide (a cell communicating ingredient with multiple anti-aging benefits), trehalose (a water binder), and glycerin to prevent dryness. The alcohol present isn't cause for concern since it's surrounded by so many hydrators. After another silicone, comes a nice dose of sodium hyaluronte, which has cell-communicating abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, reduce inflammation, and help prevent moisture loss. The few antioxidants and anti-inflammatories follow a few more thickeners, and the fragrance and colorants are the last three ingredients so cause for irritation is very minimal. Bottom Line: This could be a deeply hydrating night product but I would layer it on top of other treatment products like antioxidants and retinoids than relying on this solely to give your skin everything it needs.