THE 101: Microneedling

Microneedling has been around for over ten years, but over the past two years it has gained popularity (the infamous Kim Kardashian selfie maybe had something to do with that). There are two different methods of application. The first, is when microneedling is done as procedure using a device (I use Rejuvapen or rollers made by Environ) performed in our office during a facial treatment, although it can also be done without a facial for those patients that are coming in for a series of treatments. It takes about 20 minutes in total. The second way micro needling is done is at home with a dermaroller, which looks like a tiny paint roller, but with little needles. 

 

In the office setting, microneedling is fully customized for your skin depending on your skin concerns, as we can control the depth of the needle penetration and how many passes we do over the skin. The tip that fits on the end of the Rejuvapen is disposable and a new one is opened for each patient. I am sure you are thinking "um, OUCH" but this treatment actually isn't painful, nor are you a bloody mess afterwards! Two things are achieved with microneedling. The first is that because we are creating little temporary invisible  'channels' so that a cocktail of ingredients (stem cells, growth factors, vitamins, etc) penetrate your skin faster and deeper. The second is that these microscopic controlled 'injuries' to your skin prompts your body to repair and create more collagen, very similar to how fractional laser works, but without the heat. This treatment is great for improving texture, and certain types of scars including acne scars, but all skin types (except if you have active acne) can benefit from it. Just like most treatments, a series of 3 to 6 are recommended. You will be a little pink after, possibly a little puffy with a tight feeling, but it subsides after 24 hours.

Another way we use microneedling to treat fine lines and wrinkles is to combine it with PRP, which stands for Platelet Rich Plasma. This treatment starts with one of our physicians. The PRP is a concentrated serum processed from your own blood. It is obtained by taking a small vial of blood from your arm, then placed in a vial and spun in a centrifuge to separate the red blood cells and plasma. The process concentrates the platelet count to about 4X normal. It is this platelet-rich plasma, often called “liquid gold”, that is then activated and injected into the skin as a natural filler for volume and plumping fine lines. I then use micro needling to infuse the remaining PRP into the skin. PRP has been used for years to speed joint, tendon and tissue repair and is a popular treatment for professional athletes. 

At home, microneedling done at home is with the use of a dermaroller. I recommend rollers from Environ for their quality, they use ultra fine needles of the highest grade stainless steel.  They are also much shorter needles then the versions used in the office, about .1 to .2 in length so they don't tear or break the skin. They also make a stamp version, but I think the rollers are easier to use. It can be used from once a week to every other night and in the nighttime only. Use your roller during your skin regime after taking off makeup, cleansing, and toning, and before applying skin care moisturizers or specialized products as recommended by your esthetician or dermatologist.  Normally we recommend to start by rolling twice a week and slowly increase to using a few times a week. Divide the area you wish to treat into sections - on the face, forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the mouth area. On the face, start on the forehead and roll vertically.  Gradually move across the skin until the forehead has been totally treated in a vertical direction.  Then roll at an angle and finally horizontally, rolling over each area of skin at least two to five times in each direction. Treat each area sequentially until the whole face, neck and decollete have been treated thoroughly and evenly for 3-5 minutes in total. The roller is individually owned and cannot be shared and is only used on clean skin.  It is important to rinse the roller after each use with water and once a week using a special cleaning solution, then storing it in the cool dry storage it comes in. When using a roller a few times a week: toss it out and replacing it everymonth; if used less frequently used rollers will last longer.

The Environ rollers we recommend can ONLY be bought through a doctor or esthetician. They dont sell products or rollers online. I feel this helps my patients be thoroughly informed on what they are doing. The rollers also come with very detailed instructions. There are many retailers of dermarollers onine, with really long length needles meant for treating stretch marks, scars, even cellulite. Please talk with your esthetician or dermatologist before using such intense treatments like those at home.


When ingredients from whatever you apply after needling go deeper into skin, the risk of possible irritation goes up, which is why you should do a patch test of all products you wish to apply after micro-needling. Also never use this tool on skin that is irritated, inflamed, has active eczema, or active acne & breakouts.