REVIEW: Juara

Juara was on my radar after getting a sample of the Candlenut Body Cream through a monthly beauty subscription box, and it was love at first smell. Subtle tropical scents are my weakness, and add to that a luxe, nourishing texture, this easily became my go-to body cream all last summer. Recently, I found out they had a face skin care line in addition to the amazing body products, and after looking at the ingredients, was eager to take a look and try some.

The brand was started by four women and is based on the Indonesian Jamu tradition - which is an ancient herbal medicinal tradition that has been around for hundreds of years where they use specific natural ingredients to treat specific skin and health issues orally and topically. In Indonesia today, even with the prevalence of western medicine, the government still recognizes Jamu as a medicinal practice, with its own set of local FDA rules. Very cool! The line is also 100% vegetarian & PETA approved, dermatologist tested, paraben-free, sulfate-free, phthalate-free, and no irritants, harsh chemicals, and is sustainably sourced. For more info, http://www.juaraskincare.com. Onto the reviews! 

Rice Facial Cleanser, 4.5 fl oz, $29           

This pumps out as a gel/lotion hybrid, and foams slightly. The smell is a heavenly tropical luxe (but subtle) that is almost too good to rinse. I massaged this in my face longer then any other cleanser I've used, and as silly as this sounds, makes me really happy. It rinses off completely, no residue left behind, and doesn't strip skin. It removed all my makeup, didn't sting my eyes, and just left my skin super soft. The cleansing agents are coconut derived, and sulfate free. This is absolutely a great cleanser for all skin types.

Ingredients: Water, Decyl Glucoside*, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate*, Coco-Glucoside*, Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) Oleosomes, Glyceryl Oleate*, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Extract, Carrageenan*, Xanthan Gum*, Sodium Levulinate, Potassion Sorbate, Citric Acid, Natural Fragrance. * NPA, ECOCERT or COSMOS Approved

Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner                4.5 fl oz, $32 

Great toners are hard to come by, they are usually loaded with alcohol and irritants. For oily skin, this may be your antioxidant layer that is lighter then a lotion or serum. For dryer skin, think of this as a boost before applying your other products. Too many antioxidants? No such thing! There is no fragrance to this, and its a pump so you can use a cotton pad or just splash on with fingertips. I wish this came in a mist form, but that is just a personal preference. The ingredient list is short but mighty. Tamarind seed extract works to increase the skin’s hydration level and .2%  hyaluronic acid makes skin feel instantly soft and supple. The white, green, and black tea extracts provides antioxidant benefits and vitamin-rich rice bran provides calming benefits, minimizing the appearance of redness. No sticky residue and soaks in within seconds. 

Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner Ingredients: Water, Pentylene Glycol, Tamarind Seed (Tamarindus indica) Extract, White Tea, Green Tea, Black Tea (Camellia sinensis) Extract, Rice (Oryza sativa) Bran Extract, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate.

Sweet Black Tea & Rice Moisturizer         1.7 fl oz, $55 

This lightweight lotion has a faint, subtle tea smell that fades in a minute, and absorbs quickly into the skin leaving it glowy, not greasy. Normal to dry skin types will love this. The first few ingredients are candlenut oil, and three different ingredients derived from olive oil, so this starts out with some effective, potent antioxidants. The rest of the ingredient list reads the same, its antioxidant after antioxidant, most which also have nourishing and anti-inflammatory properties. Another highlight is fermented sweet black tea, also known in Indonesia as “miracle tea” or “kombucha,” which is rich in energizing Vitamin B. Hyaluronic acid, and other active botanicals round out the ingredients, which make this a product I loved, and would also highly recommend.

Sweet Black Tea & Rice Moisturizer Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether*, Cetearyl Olivate*, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate*, Cetearyl Alcohol*, Glycerin, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Oil, Avocado (Persea gratissima) Oil, Phytosterols, Olive (Olea europaea) Fruit Oil, Aamla (Phyllanthus emblica) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids, Ferulic acid, Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate, Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Leaf Extract,  Illipe (Shorea stenoptera) Seed Butter, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Extract, Five Flavor Berry (Schizandra chinensis) Fruit Extract*, Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, Tocopherol , Xanthan Gum*, Cetyl Palmitate*, Sorbitan Palmitate*, Sorbitan Oleate*, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phytate, Natural Fragrance.

Miracle Tea Complete Eye Creme             .5 fl oz, $48 

The texture of this eye cream was perfect for me, silky but not rich, and let my concealer go on smooth. There is a subtle, natural earthy smell that is barely noticeable. The ingredient list is very similar to the moisturizer mentioned above, with some welcome additions suited for the eye area. Marigold is known to decrease inflammation, promote lymphatic drainage, and lessen the appearance of dark circles and broken capillaries. Score! Next are some algaes, ferulic acid, and herbs, all which will lighten and brighten the delicate under eye skin. This is another superstar product from Juara!

Ingredients: Water, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Dicaprylyl Ether*, Cetearyl Olivate*, Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) Butter, Stearyl Alcohol, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Oil, Sorbitan Olivate*, Cetearyl Alcohol*, Avocado (Persea gratissima) Oil, Phytosterols, Olive (Olea europaea) Fruit Oil,  Illipe (Shorea stenoptera) Seed Butter, Aamla (Phyllanthus emblica) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate,  Tetrahydrocurcuminoids, Ferulic acid, Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate, Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Leaf Extract, Plankton Extract, Brown Algae (Ascophyllum nodosum) Extract, Red Algae (Asparagopsis armata) Extract, Golden Chamomile (Chrysanthellum indicum) Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, Five Flavor Berry (Schizandra chinensis) Fruit Extract*, Cetyl Palmitate*, Sorbitan Palmitate*, Sorbitan Oleate*, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Bismuth Oxychloride, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum*, Sodium Phytate. * NPA, ECOCERT or COSMOS Approved

Turmeric Antioxidant Radiance Mask        3 oz, $37 

This mask comes out creamy, and has a faint earthy, natural smell. The base is water, glycerin (a skin repairing ingredient), kaolin (an oil absorbing clay) and candlenut oil (non-fragrant plant oil that is an anti-inflammatory and wound healing). Next up is tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, a extract  from turmeric that is known for brightening and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Then we have Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane (lol longest name ever) which is a synthetic antioxidant that provides the protective effects of potent antioxidant curcumin but without the deep yellow coloration. This also has an anti-inflammatory benefit as well as reducing the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) which destroy collagen. The antioxidants continue with carrot seed oil and vitamin E. While masks aren't totally necessary (think of them as boosters) this is a nice indulgence for any skin type that will leave your skin soft and glowy.

Turmeric Antioxidant Radiance Mask Ingredients: Water/Eau, Glycerin, Kaolin Clay, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Myristyl Myristate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahyrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carrot (Daucus Carota sativa) Seed Oil, Vitamin E (Tocopheryl) Acetate, Hydroxyethylacrlyate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenypropanol, Polysorbate 60.

THE 101: Microneedling

Microneedling has been around for over ten years, but over the past two years it has gained popularity (the infamous Kim Kardashian selfie maybe had something to do with that). There are two different methods of application. The first, is when microneedling is done as procedure using a device (I use Rejuvapen or rollers made by Environ) performed in our office during a facial treatment, although it can also be done without a facial for those patients that are coming in for a series of treatments. It takes about 20 minutes in total. The second way micro needling is done is at home with a dermaroller, which looks like a tiny paint roller, but with little needles. 

In the office setting, microneedling is fully customized for your skin depending on your skin concerns, as we can control the depth of the needle penetration and how many passes we do over the skin. The tip that fits on the end of the Rejuvapen is disposable and a new one is opened for each patient. I am sure you are thinking "um, OUCH" but this treatment actually isn't painful, nor are you a bloody mess afterwards! Two things are achieved with microneedling. The first is that because we are creating little temporary invisible  'channels' so that a cocktail of ingredients (stem cells, growth factors, vitamins, etc) penetrate your skin faster and deeper. The second is that these microscopic controlled 'injuries' to your skin prompts your body to repair and create more collagen, very similar to how fractional laser works, but without the heat. This treatment is great for improving texture, and certain types of scars including acne scars, but all skin types (except if you have active acne) can benefit from it. Just like most treatments, a series of 3 to 6 are recommended. You will be a little pink after, possibly a little puffy with a tight feeling, but it subsides after 24 hours.

Another way we use microneedling to treat fine lines and wrinkles is to combine it with PRP, which stands for Platelet Rich Plasma. This treatment starts with one of our physicians. The PRP is a concentrated serum processed from your own blood. It is obtained by taking a small vial of blood from your arm, then placed in a vial and spun in a centrifuge to separate the red blood cells and plasma. The process concentrates the platelet count to about 4X normal. It is this platelet-rich plasma, often called “liquid gold”, that is then activated and injected into the skin as a natural filler for volume and plumping fine lines. I then use micro needling to infuse the remaining PRP into the skin. PRP has been used for years to speed joint, tendon and tissue repair and is a popular treatment for professional athletes. 

At home, microneedling done at home is with the use of a dermaroller. I recommend rollers from Environ for their quality, they use ultra fine needles of the highest grade stainless steel.  They are also much shorter needles then the versions used in the office, about .1 to .2 in length so they don't tear or break the skin. They also make a stamp version, but I think the rollers are easier to use. It can be used from once a week to every other night and in the nighttime only. Use your roller during your skin regime after taking off makeup, cleansing, and toning, and before applying skin care moisturizers or specialized products as recommended by your esthetician or dermatologist.  Normally we recommend to start by rolling twice a week and slowly increase to using a few times a week. Divide the area you wish to treat into sections - on the face, forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the mouth area. On the face, start on the forehead and roll vertically.  Gradually move across the skin until the forehead has been totally treated in a vertical direction.  Then roll at an angle and finally horizontally, rolling over each area of skin at least two to five times in each direction. Treat each area sequentially until the whole face, neck and decollete have been treated thoroughly and evenly for 3-5 minutes in total. The roller is individually owned and cannot be shared and is only used on clean skin.  It is important to rinse the roller after each use with water and once a week using a special cleaning solution, then storing it in the cool dry storage it comes in. When using a roller a few times a week: toss it out and replacing it everymonth; if used less frequently used rollers will last longer.

The Environ rollers we recommend can ONLY be bought through a doctor or esthetician. They dont sell products or rollers online. I feel this helps my patients be thoroughly informed on what they are doing. The rollers also come with very detailed instructions. There are many retailers of dermarollers onine, with really long length needles meant for treating stretch marks, scars, even cellulite. Please talk with your esthetician or dermatologist before using such intense treatments like those at home.

When ingredients from whatever you apply after needling go deeper into skin, the risk of possible irritation goes up, which is why you should do a patch test of all products you wish to apply after micro-needling. Also never use this tool on skin that is irritated, inflamed, has active eczema, or active acne & breakouts.

THE 101: Chemical Peels

The word 'chemical' itself generates a negative image for most people who have never had a peel, however the chemicals come from very natural sources. For example, most glycolic acid (a common peel ingredient) comes from sugar cane. There are a LOT of options when it comes to chemical peels varying in ingredients and strengths. Some peels I perform on brides the day before a wedding and some will require a week of peeling and flaky skin. Your esthetician or dermatologist will help you decide what is right for you depending on the results you want. We will explain what to expect, and the post-peel care (if any).

The most common acids used in chemical peels are glycolic, lactic, trichlorocetic (tca) and salicylic acid. Lactic acid is my go to for dry skin, tca or salicylic for acne, and glycolic for everyone else. We can even use different acids on different areas of the face for a customized peel treatment. Peels are an effective way to smooth texture, even out skin color, brighten, reduce fine lines, and even improve acne scars.

A question I get a lot from clients is "Do I need a facial or a peel?" Almost every facial treatment I perform incorporates some type of gentle, 'no downtime' chemical peel.  For clients that have a lot of pigmentation/dark spots, scars, or wrinkles, we will do a monthly peel (or a series of peels) to get their skin into shape, and then maintain the results with facials. If doing a peel during a facial treatment, there will be a tiny bit of stinging for a moment, and then its neutralized. For a peel without a facial, these will usually be 'self neutralizing' which happens in a few minutes but is left on the skin until you wash your face that evening. 

Some of my favorite peels come from Skin Medica, a skin care brand from Allergan (yep the pharma company that makes Botox). They have three options from light to strong, here is a chart explaining each one in depth.

Complications with chemical peels are very rare, especially the superficial ones. Sun exposure after a peel, can result in hyper-pigmentation, so diligent application of spf is mandatory! Another issue that can arise is post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, which is a temporary overproduction of melanin following any type of inflammation. Your esthetician or dermatologist will discuss your skin care routine and history to greatly reduce the risks of these complications.  

REVIEW: Goop Skincare

I personally feel organic skincare really comes down to personal preference. There is a huge misconception that all synthetic/non-organic ingredients are bad and that all organic/natural ingredients are better. There is no published research to date showing organic ingredients are better or safer for your skin when it comes to skincare. Just because something IS natural/organic, doesn't mean its safe for your skin.  An organic irritant is still an irritant. There is numerous published research that shows when skin is irritated, it not only causes collagen to break down, but impairs the skin's ability to heal. For the record, I really LOVE a lot of organic and green beauty brands and products, and use a lot of them myself. For a more insight, you can check out my previous post about the FDA and natural ingredients. Back to Goop..I was hoping from a lot more from this line, considering I think the Goop team puts in a lot of effort to research the products they support and brands they partner with. I spoke with Yahoo Beauty about this the other day, you can read more about it here: https://www.yahoo.com/beauty/what-it-costs-to-do-skincare-like-gwyneth-paltrow-185826262.html

Onto the ingredients!  (all images and ingredient lists are taken from goop.com)

LUMINOUS MELTING CLEANSER  This smells heavenly, and undoubtedly it is hard to not want to rub it all over your face. But don't, here's why..The first four oils mentioned are found in your typical oil based cleansers, but right after those comes the 'essential oil blend' which are all commonly known irritants. This isn't going to stay on your skin long enough for those irritants to cause trouble, since it is a cleanser and is only in contact with the skin a short time, but why not use an oil cleanser that is 100% safe from irritants! Oil cleansers will remove makeup, but unless you have super dry skin with no visible pores in sight, you still should use a water soluble face wash after an oil cleanser. Or just avoid them completely. Also this is $90! What?? NO! Just, no.  

• Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter.

EXFOLIATING INSTANT FACIAL  Most of this line's products starts with grape juice, apple juice, and lemon juice. Grape and apple I can get behind, but lemon is a common irritant along with the 'essential oil blend' that follows. Similar to a cleanser, this isn't staying on your skin very long, but exfoliation should be done gently, and combining exfoliation with irritating ingredients is never a good idea.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetyl Esters, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glycolic Acid, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Coco-Glucoside, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit Extract, Malic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Gluconolactone, Tartaric Acid, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Panthenyl Triacetate.

REVITALIZING DAY MOISTURIZER  The second ingredient is lemon juice, which is a BAD idea for a leave on product. Lemons, limes, and some other citrus fruits can cause something called phytophotodermatitis (PPD) upon exposure to sunlight. Results from this can be a rash or brown discolorations. A quick google search on this will scare you straight! This is not something you want to have on your skin during the day. If that weren't bad enough, this also has the 'essential oil blend' that is a mix of known irritants, and should absolutely not be in a face product.  For more info on lemon juice and limonene, check out http://www.inchem.org/documents/cicads/cicads/cicad05.htm and http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19125719. There are some other great ingredients in this, its unfortunate that the bad really outweighs the good.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Glycerin*, Vegetable Oil, Diheptyl Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spitacus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Stearic Acid, Squalane, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet's Daffodil) Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Behenyl Behenate, Tribehenin, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pullulan, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid.
   

REPLENISHING NIGHT CREAM  This is very similar to the day cream, and the same review applies. This is also packaged in a jar, which even if it was full of amazing ingredients, they wouldn't stay active very long. Ironic note: the description of this product says  "...while linseed extract and hyaluronic acid hydrate, lift and firm" and you will notice hyaluronic listed as the second to LAST ingredient. 

• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Gluconolactone, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, And Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil*, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Behenyl Behenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate.

PERFECTING EYE CREAM  Again we see lemon juice as the second ingredient. This eye cream leaves out the 'essential oil blend' found in the other products, and follows with a great line up. However the jar packaging (oxygen exposure makes actives less active) and the high lemon juice content make this easy to pass over.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Vegetable Oil, Glycerin*, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Jojoba Esters, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil.

ENRICHING FACE OIL  This starts out with some great oils, but then the 6th and 7th ingredients, the known irritants: bitter orange and rose germanium turn this into a product I would also skip applying on my face due to possible risks of irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. 

• Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil*, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*, Borago Officinalis (Starflower) Seed Oil*, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil.*

THE 101: Korean Beauty

Fashion trends are a funny thing, and I’ll be the first to admit I’ve had my share of trendy impulse buys. Skincare trends, like anything else, come and go - but with such a heavy push from advertising, social media, bloggers, and beauty stores- this is one trend I foresee sticking around for a while. Some of these brands have exceptionally well formulated products (Dr Jart, Amore Pacific, SK-II), and will most likely remain staples at popular stores like Sephora. I picked some of the ‘best-sellers’ from a few different Korean beauty specialty websites to review.

IMAGE: sephora

A few more thoughts...

• While there are absolutely some unique and new ingredients that have come out of Korea (think snail secretions and fermented everything) they are not only to able acquired and used by brands made in Korea. Also to note, a lot of these unique ingredients don't have much research, if any, behind them yet to back up the claims.

• In my opinion, the generalization that Korean women (and lots of other asian nationalities) seem to have more youthful skin then other nationalities is most likely because they seem to be more dilligent with their sun protection, which would explain a LOT.

• A lot of Korean items I am seeing are just renamed! For instance, 'essences' are very similar to toners (not the astringent toners that may come to mind, but the hydrating ones), 'patches' are usually masks, and 'sleeping masks' are usually thick night creams.

 

MIZON ALL-IN-ONE SNAIL REPAIR CREAM  

Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Dimethicone, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glyocol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Rh-oligopeptide-1, Propylene Glycol, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Beta-glucan, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Disodium Edta

The company claims that the first ingredient, the snail secretion, makes up 92% of the product, and will reduce acne scars. Also to note, this company, along with many other brands use snail secretion in different forms- masks, serums, night cream, you name it. The ONE and only published research I could find on this used snail secretion from a little creature called “Snail Cryptomphalus Aspersa” or SCA. They concluded daily application of topical products tested  on 25 people containing SCA proved effective and well tolerated for improvement in some wrinkles but did not report a significant difference in the quality of their skin. What species of snail goo is this brand using- is it the same as the snails from the study? Are the snails harmed? Too many unanswered questions, not enough research. This also contains some ingredients that could potentially clog pores, AND it is also packaged in a jar, which means some of the actual researched ingredients (even in the tiny amounts that are present here) can go bad quickly anyway. Bottom Line: I wouldn't recommend using snail products until more research is shown that this is proven to be beneficial. 

 

BANILA CO. CLEAN IT ZERO

Mineral Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, Polyethylene, Butylene Glycol, Water, Rubus Suavissimus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinesis Root Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Leaf Extract, BHT, Butylparaben, CI 16255, CI 15985, Fragrance

if you wear a lot of makeup and find there is still residue after you wash, then a ‘double cleanse’ or using a 'precleanser' may be right for you. All ‘double cleanse’ means is using two different products to wash, the first pre cleanse being geared towards removing makeup (like cleansing oils or balms) and the second to cleanse the skin once all that makeup is off and to remove any traces of the first cleanse (usually gel or foamy formulas).  This particular product would be the first step in your double cleanse to get off makeup, it is mineral oil base and comes in solid form, but starts to liquify into a oil when you start rubbing it together. I wouldnt rely on this as my only cleanser because it does leave a little residue, and needs a gel or foam to really get off any traces of it. There are some antioxidants present, but in a cleanser those ingredients are useless because they don't stay on the skin long to do much. This product has a faint citrus smell and does contain a small amount fragrance. Bottom Line: If your need to thoroughly remove makeup and your cleanser isnt cutting it, this is a safe and effective option as a precleanser.

CAOLION BLACKHEAD O2 BUBBLE PORE PACK

Water, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Ethyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysorbate 60, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour, Charcoal Powder, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Peg/ppg-18/18dimethicone, Peg-100 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, C12-16 Alcohols, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (licorice) Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Trideceth-6, Disodium Edta

There are quite a few products referred to as ‘packs’, which is usually just another name for mask! The first few ingredients are what gives this product the fizzy bubbling sensation on the skin, then follows some cleansing detergents and some emollients. The inclusion of charcoal has oil absorbing properties. The directions say to apply it to the skin, wait for it to start getting fizzy, massage it in (there is a slight grit to this, so you will get a mild exfoliation), wait a few more minutes then rinse. Bottom Line: This won't do much for your blackheads, but it's a fun option as a mask for normal to oily skin as a way to exfoliate and absorb excess oil.

CREMORLAB MINERAL TREATMENT ESSENCE

Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (matricaria) Flower Water, Saccharomyces Ferment, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Water, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Betaine, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Pvm/ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol

Essences are used like toners, they are liquids that are applied after cleansing but before lotions/creams/serums. These ingredients can absolutely be found in those products also, but for normal to oily skin which normally shies away from creamy textures, essences are a great way to give the skin a dose of vitamins, antioxidants, and hydration. The Rosa Centifolia Flower Water which makes up most of this essence, is different from the widely used traditional rose or rose oils which are a huge concern for irritation- this one works as an antioxidant. Niacinamide, which is prevalent in a lot of essences I looked at is an amazing cell-communicating ingredient with a ton of anti-aging properties. The rest of the list reads as safe with proven anti-irritants, and more antioxidants. Bravo! Bottom Line: Safe and effective for all skin types, essences can be a nice booster before your current routine. I'll be using these types of products in the humid weather instead of a lotion.

PRIMERA MIRACLE SEED ESSENCE

Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium Edta, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Methyl Gluceth-20, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-hexanediol.

This is an essence geared towards dry skin, as the first ingredient (nelumbo nucifera germ extract) which will make up most the product, is a humectant and will attract moisture. The niacinamide in this comes in as second on the list, one of my favorite cell communicating ingredients that can even out skin tone and improve elasticity. Followed by some more hydrating ingredients like glycerin and  sodium hyaluronate, and finishing with a ferment (antioxidant) and some more preservatives. Bottom Line: Safe, effective, and could be a great booster for dry skin before your other moisturizers/treatments, or even used solo.

 

MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE

Saccharomyces ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium -51, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Betaine, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Pirper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Beta vulgaris (Beet) Root extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Trehalose, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Raffinose, Tromethamine, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, 1, 2 - Hexanediol, Caprytyl Glycol, Hexapeptide - 9 Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

The first two ingredients are ferments that are skin conditioning agents, also with limited research saying they have some antioxidant capabilities. Next up is a propanediol (humectant) and the superstar niacinamide. The rest of the list has some additional antioxidants, anti-irritants, and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: This is a great way for all skin types to hydrate and give your skin a dose of necessary ingredients used solo or before applying a cream/lotion or serum. If you choose to add an essence or toner to your routine, try putting a few drops in your palm and swiping it onto the skin. Using a cotton pad tends to waste a lot of product.

TONYMOLY PANDA DREAM EYE PATCH

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sorbitol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Erythritol, Trehalose, Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Pulp Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

I love seeing glycerin and niacinamide within the first five ingredients, but the excitement stops there. Next listed is a few preservatives and slip agents followed by ‘fragrance’. If fragrance was the last ingredient, I wouldn’t be concerned, but I dont want to see it before the nice array of antioxidants and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: I personally wont be using these cutesy eye patches due to the excessive amount of fragrance, but if your skin isn't sensitive to fragrance, these can absolutely be a refreshing and hydrating treat for your under eyes.

RE:P BIO FRESH MASK WITH REAL CALMING HERB

Water, Kaoline, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexadiol, Artemisia Annua Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Triticum Spelta Seed Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Powder, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Safflower Yellow, Gardenia Red, Fragrance

This is a kaolin clay based mask, and Kaolin has absorbent properties which makes it a nice option for oily skin. Following the clay come a few emmolient and emulsifying ingredients to keep this product creamy and in its solid form. The herbs/plant extracts and the rest of the ingredients following are safe in low concentrations, but antioxidants and anti-inflammatories work best when they are left on the skin, instead of rinsing off them, which you have to do when using a mask! The inclusion fragrance and coloring are miniscule amounts which arent cause for concern since they are the last three ingredients listed. Bottom Line: This mask can absolutely help control excess oil when used once or twice a week without overdrying.

MIZON GOOD NIGHT WHITE SLEEPING MASK

Aqua, Cyclomethicone, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Trehalose, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp Copolymer, Triethanolmaine, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Broussonetia Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Pantethine, Placental Protein, Natto Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Disodium Edta, Methyl Parabven, Propyl Paraben, Ci17200, Ci42090, Fragrance

Sleeping masks or sleeping packs appear to be thick night creams, normally geared towards dry skin. The high amount of cyclomethicone (a silicone emollient) in this Mizon product is going to prevent moisture loss without suffocating skin. Next up is niacinamide (a cell communicating ingredient with multiple anti-aging benefits), trehalose (a water binder), and glycerin to prevent dryness. The alcohol present isn't cause for concern since it's surrounded by so many hydrators. After another silicone, comes a nice dose of sodium hyaluronte, which has cell-communicating abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, reduce inflammation, and help prevent moisture loss. The few antioxidants and anti-inflammatories follow a few more thickeners, and the fragrance and colorants are the last three ingredients so cause for irritation is very minimal. Bottom Line: This could be a deeply hydrating night product but I would layer it on top of other treatment products like antioxidants and retinoids than relying on this solely to give your skin everything it needs.