The FDA & Organic Beauty Products, & Some Thoughts

Here is a copy of what the FDA says about organic cosmetics, taken from their website

Does FDA have a definition for the term “organic”?

No. FDA regulates cosmetics under the authority of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). The term “organic” is not defined in either of these laws or the regulations that FDA enforces under their authority.

How is the term “organic” regulated?

The Agricultural Marketing Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) oversees the National Organic Program (NOP). The NOP regulations include a definition of “organic” and provide for certification that agricultural ingredients have been produced under conditions that would meet the definition. They also include labeling standards based on the percentage of organic ingredients in a product. For more information on "organic" labeling for cosmetics, see the NOP publication, "Cosmetics, Body Care Products, and Personal Care Products." 

If a cosmetic is labeled “organic” according to the USDA, is it still subject to the laws and regulations enforced by FDA?

Yes. The USDA requirements for the use of the term “organic” are separate from the laws and regulations that FDA enforces for cosmetics. Cosmetic products labeled with organic claims must comply with both USDA regulations for the organic claim and FDA regulations for labeling and safety requirements for cosmetics. Information on FDA’s regulation of cosmetics is available on our Cosmetics website.

Are cosmetics made with “organic” ingredients safer for consumers than those made with ingredients from other sources?

No. An ingredient’s source does not determine its safety. For example, many plants, whether or not they are organically grown, contain substances that may be toxic or allergenic. For more on this subject, see FDA Poisonous Plant Database. Under the FD&C Act, all cosmetic products and ingredients are subject to the same safety requirement: They must be safe for consumers under labeled or customary conditions of use (FD&C Act, section 601(a). Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure that their products and ingredients are safe for the intended use. 

Life is all about balance, and I think that also applies to our skincare and beauty routines. If you prefer to use all organic or green beauty brands, that great! If you don't, thats great too! I think in regards to the brands and products we buy and support, a lot of it comes down to preference. Is organic jojoba oil better, safer, or more effective then non-organic jojoba oil? All signs point to no. Once a plant or flower is harvested, cleaned, processed and ready to be included in a skincare or makeup product, the sterilization process ensures no pesticides remain. There is still no proven research stating that an organic ingredient in skincare is superior. With the demand of clean ingredients, and brands being more transparent, that will probably change soon and I look forward to learning more about all of this. 

There are so many exceptional plant and flower based ingredients that have solid data showing how beneficial they are to the skin and some of these can be found in green and clean beauty brands, amongst others. However, just with all products, there are many naturally sourced ingredients that are common irritants, which can cause irritation, allergies, and sensitivity in your skin. Repeated rritation and inflammation causes collagen breakdown, and can slow your skin's ability to heal. Just because you aren't having a red splotch or rash, doesn't mean inflammation isn't still happening below the surface. Think of it the same way our bodies handle sugar or processed food that trigger internal inflammation; you may not see the long term effects right away but that doesn't mean its not happening. You don't want to see these types of ingredients high up on your products ingredient list. To learn about some common ingredients you may want to avoid, check out https://www.futurederm.com/five-natural-ingredients-that-can-irritate-your-skin/  

Another really great article to check out: http://www.racked.com/2016/5/5/11591300/natural-skincare-clean-beauty-toxins

For those that want to delve into this deeper, I use these resources a LOT: 

  • http://www.journals.elsevier.com/journal-of-ethnopharmacology

  • http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

  • http://www.karger.com

If you are looking for organic beauty products, there are some terms to know when reading labels. Here in the United States, the FDA doesn't regulate organic claims for cosmetics, skincare and personal care products. However the the USDA and ECOCERT have some regulations and systems for standards on organic plant claims in skincare/beauty. On the packaging of your product, you may find a few seals or labels of different certification agencies. They vary in standards so it is best to just look up the agency and see if their standards match what you are looking for in terms of organic. If the product has the USDA seal, these are the guidelines that are followed: https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Labeling%20Organic%20Products.pdf

The following is an excerpt from an article written by beauty expert, Paula Begoun, that I think is worth mentioning..
Dr. Linda M. Katz, director of the Food and Drug Administration's Office of Cosmetics and Colors stated in 2007 that "Consumers should not necessarily assume that an 'organic' or 'natural' ingredient or product would possess greater inherent safety than another chemically identical version of the same ingredient. In fact, 'natural' ingredients may be harder to preserve against microbial contamination and growth than synthetic raw materials" (Source: New York Times, November 1, 2007).

Joan Shaffer, USDA spokeswoman stated that "…people should not interpret even the USDA Organic seal or any organic seal of approval on cosmetics as proof of health benefits or of efficacy," said. The National Organic Program is a marketing program, not a safety program. [Chocolate cake] may be [natural or organic] but that has no bearing on whether it is safe or nutritious to eat" (Source: www.ams.usda.gov/nop/FactSheets/Backgrounder.html).

I'm not trying to deter anyone away from buying organic skincare and supporting green beauty brands, as I purchase and support a lot of these myself. I just think its important when forming opinions to try to get as much information as possible and decide what is important to you. And finally, as for my personal opinion (if you are still even reading lol)...If I am presented with two products with exactly the same ingredient list, and one is organic while the other one isn't, I will probably choose the organic. Not because I think the organic versions of the ingredients are going to work better, but because I want to support a brand that is environmentally conscious. 

 

THE 101 : Botox

For me, Botox is as commonplace as toothpaste, but from some, the idea of freezing your muscles is still terrifying! Here's what you need to know.

What exactly is it and how does it work? Botox is a brand from the pharmaceutical company, Allergan. Its botulinum toxin (a purified version of the bacteria that causes botulism) that prohibits nerves from delivering their signal to muscles, typically in your face. Its also referred to as a 'neurotoxin'.  It blocks the ability of the nerve ending to secrete acetylcholine, which the muscle needs in order to contract.  By blocking these nerve endings, the muscles in your face  stay in a relaxed position so you stop scrunching, and when you stop scrunching, the wrinkle disappears. It can be used preventatively if you do happen to have really strong muscle movement; Botox essentially freezes the muscle, so leaving you unable to make a scrunching wrinkle-causing expression, any wrinkles from these muscles will take longer to develop. 

How long has it been around, and how we do we know its safe? Scientists have been playing around with this stuff for over a hundred years! In 1989, it got approval to treat eyelid spasms. Throughout the nineties, it was used to treat bladder spasms, writer's cramp, excessive sweating, even cerebral palsy in kids. Finally, in 2002, Botox got approved by the FDA to treat wrinkles, and continues to get FDA approvals for other uses. 

Where in your face do you get it and does it hurt?  Though Botox can be used many places, the most common areas are crow's feet around the eyes, frown lines between the eyebrows, and furrows on the forehead. Some doctors can make lines on the neck smooth out also! If you have excessing sweating, Botox can also get injected into the glands under the arms. Getting needles in your armpits totally hurts for a minute but is really nice to sweat less during those really hot months. Injections on the face are much easier, you feel each pinch, but as soon as its done, there is zero pain. There can be a bit of bruising, but its rare, and staying off anything that can thin your blood for 48 hours prior can help minimize bruising. 

How long does it last? Botox typically wears off in three to four months. If you're using it under your arms, it can actually last up to nine months.When it does wear off, everything will go back to normal but it won't happen overnight.  

What are the side effects? Any drug can have side effects. The most common issues are headaches and bruises, poking needles in your face will usually do that..

Are there any alternatives?  Nothing can relax the muscle like Botox, but certain skin care treatments can improve the look of wrinkles. High doses of vitamin A applied topically (like retinoids) are the most studied topical skin care ingredient to improve wrinkles. Treatments like micro-current devices done in a facial, or home care gadgets can improve these types of lines, but need to be done consistently to keep the results looking good.

What age should I start getting Botox? These type of procedures aren't for everyone, and thats ok! If you are interested in anti-aging procedures, and want to stay ahead of pre-mature aging, Botox can be a really great, inexpensive treatment for you. There is no right or wrong age, Botox isn't an age thing, its a muscle thing. I have seen teenage girls with deep forehead wrinkles, that doesn't mean they should be doing it, but just to give an idea that there isn't a particular age when wrinkles appear due to strong muscles. On the flip side, I've seen women in their fifties and sixties with super smooth foreheads, who may never need Botox. Again, its all about how much muscle movement you have. Personally, my forehead has been getting Botox since I was about 25, and can actually go longer now in between treatments instead of exactly every 4 months.

The nurse at my dentist offers Botox, can I do it with them?  I wouldn't. I saw a sign in my gyno's office that they now offered Botox. I get it, everyone wants a piece of the pie. Over 6 million Botox procedures were performed in 2014 and surely reports of next year will be even higher. Your dentist and gyno both get extensive medical training, but there are specialities within medicine for a reason. So even though a nurse can administer this, but they don't have anywhere near the training a doctor has. See a board certified (very important!) dermatologist or plastic surgeon.

REVIEW: Baxter Of California

It's time to throw out your guys' Irish Spring and Axe deodorant. Don't even ask, just toss it. But replace it with some luxe new goodies, that you might even be tempted to borrow. Most of guys I see for skincare at the office usually have come my way from their significant other; but they still want their own face products. I had picked up some really (realllyyyy) nice candles from Baxter at Saturday's Surf and had the chance to try some of their body and skincare recently. This line is old school having started in the late 60s, and now has an array of hair, body and skin products. The first thing you'll notice is the packaging in the happiest hues of blues and greens, which ooze cali vibes, and i can proudly display in my shower. Secondly, all the products I tried don't have that awful polo sport smell most lines geared towards men have. Most importantly, the following products I played around with had a nice array of ingredients; more details below! 

Daily Face Wash this is a gel, its fragrance free, has coconut derived cleansing agents so its not harsh, and a shot of aloe for soothing.

Under Eye Complex fragrance free with a light but hydrating texture, and in a tube (no messy jars). vitamins, ginkgo for reducing puffiness, and fatty acids for free radical protection. 

Oil Free Moisturizer lightweight texture, fragrance free, and won't leave you with a shiny face. vitamin a (the best!), vitamin e, and antioxidants like green tea. 

Body Wash a gel formula, but the jojoba and plant based cleansing agents make it hydrating. comes in three unisex scents, but i especially love the 'italian lime and pomegranite'

Deodorant it's probably wishful thinking but i truly feel mens deodorant (and shavers!) just work better. and i can get behind this fresh citrus smell, and that it's alcohol and aluminum free. 

The Candles oh the candles! these soy wax candles come in collections of three different scents per series. plus some special editions for saturdays surf and union made. i'm partial to any of the scents in the 'white wood' series with notes like bergamot and vetiver - so fresh so clean.

 

REVIEW: Creme de la Mer

Is it worth it? This is probably the one question I get asked the most about some "luxury" skin care lines. I put "luxury" in quotes because the idea that a face cream must be expensive to be effective is, simply put, a lie. Advertising and packaging play a huge role in how we look at a skin care product, and I'll be the first to admit that first impressions are extremely important; the smell of a cream, the feel, the sound the jar makes when you open it..

There are undoubtedly certain items you absolutely get what you pay for, but skin care does not have to be one of them. A product must comply with the FDA and list ingredients, so as they say, the proof is in the puddin'. Lets take a look at what is exactly in this $155/1oz cream. I'll highlight some of the ingredients that can be cause of concern, with a summary following the list.

The ingredients..

Seaweed (Algae) Extract: we don't know the exact types in here, as in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. A number of species have been used for good purposes, but some algae are also potential skin irritants. 

Mineral Oil: an emollient, nonirritating moisturizing ingredient derived from petroleum 

Petrolatum: emollient and anti-irritant (vaseline is pure petrolatum)

Glycerin: natural or synthetic, glycerin is a humectant, readily absorbs water from other sources

Isohexadecane: an emollient component of petroleum

Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Extract:  a known fragrance allergen that contains fragrance chemicals bergapten and limonene, both of which can cause what's known as a phototoxic reaction when applied to skin that's then exposed to sunlight. 

Microcrystalline Wax: highly refined wax derived from petroleum

Lanolin Alcohol: an emollient, thick substance derived from the sebaceous glands of sheep

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil: an emollient non-fragrant plant oil that contains vitamin e and some minerals 

Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil: fragrant plant oil that is a potent skin irritant due to its chemical components

Magnesium Sulfate: a thickening agent commonly known as Epsom salt

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed, an emollient non-fragrant plant oil that contains vitamin e and some minerals 

Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder: a plant derived antioxidant

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake: a non-fragrant , anti- inflammatory emollient plant oil, source of fatty acids skin can use, including linoleic acid

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal: a non-fragrant emollient plant oil 

Sodium Gluconate, Potassium Gluconate: referred to as chelating agents, these are ingredients that inactivate metallic ions to prevent the deterioration

Copper Gluconate: a mineral with antioixdant action

Calcium Gluconate: a mineral with anti-inflammatory properties

Magnesium Gluconate: a mineral with antibacterial properties

Zinc Gluconate: a mineral with anti-inflammatory action

Paraffin: a waxy, petroleum-based substance used as a thickener

Tocopheryl Succinate: vitamin e, an antioxidant

Niacin: aka vitamin B3 , a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers multiple benefits for skin

Beta-Carotene: antioxidant 

Decyl Oleate: skin-conditioning agent derived from the esters of decyl alcohol and oleic acid

Aluminum Distearate: a aluminum salt derived thickener 

Octyldodecanol: a fatt alcohol based thickener 

Citric Acid: used to balance the pH of a product

Cyanocobalamin: a common form of  vitamin b12, but limited research it has any benefit when applied topically 

Magnesium Stearate: thickener 

Panthenol: alcohol form of vitamin B, a humectant

Limonene: a chemical constituent of many fragrant natural ingredients (citrus oils or pine trees or species of the mint family), can cause contact dermatitis 

Geraniol: an alcohol used for scent, common allergen

Linalool: Fragrant component of lavender and coriander that can be a potent skin irritant

Hydroxycitronellal: syntheic scent, common allergen

Citronellol: plant dervied, used for fragrance, common allergen

Benzyl Salicylate: an alcohol known to cause contact dermatitis

Citral: synthetic used for fragrance, known to cause contact dermatitis

Methylchloroisothiazolinone: a preservative also known as Kathon CG, common allergen

Fragrance: a blend of synthetic or fragrant plant oils that are often skin irritants

 

BOTTOM LINE: First, this is packaged in a jar, so the few antioxidants that are in this will become ineffective very quickly. Second, the claims in this mix of algae (that we aren't even sure of the exact types of used in this product) are a must have for skin are completely unsubstantiated. Third, there are way too many irritants that could be a problem for skin.  And lastly, the price is absurd for what your getting. This is easily a "skip don't splurge" product.