REVIEW: Oskia

A client of mine was raving about an eye cream she bought at Selfridges in London, which was my first introduction to cult favorite, Oskia Skincare. It's not sold here in the US (yet!) but it is available at some of the best beauty stores and spas across the UK, as well on the Oskia website where they will ship worldwide. The line is based around the skincare benefits of MSM (methyl sulfonyl methane) a natural form of organic sulphur, which you've probably seen in supplements at your health food store. This ingredient (along with many other superstar ingredients) are found in most of Oskia's products, along with an MSM oral supplement. 

You can read all about the benefits of MSM here. And take a look at some researched studies here,  here and here. I didn't try every product in the line, but instead got a selection of the best sellers. These are really impressive, active products that I hope make their way into the states soon- but in the meantime they are absolutely worth the international shipping costs due to the unique formulas.

RENAISSANCE CLEANSING GEL                                                                                       SIZE 100ML, PRICE £29.50 or $39.33 USD

Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aqua, Cetearyl Olivate, Sucrose Laurate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sucrose Palmitate, Parfum (Natural), Geraniol*, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Citronellol**, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lactobacillus/Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Ferment Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sucrose Stearate, Linalool**, Retinyl Palmitate, CI77491 (natural iron oxide), Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate. **Component of natural essential oils

This is a unique product, its a pink, rich gel that turns into an oil, then turns milky once you get water mixed with it. It does have a soothing subtle chamomile & rose scent. However, if you don't like oil cleansers, you probably won't like this- it leaves the skin clean but doesn't give that 'tight' feeling after using foamy or water soluble gel cleansers. I'm not going to dive into the ingredients because cleansers aren't left on the skin very long to have a huge impact except for cleansing the skin, but its suitable for all skin types, and this will absolutely dissolve makeup. 

RENAISSANCE 360 (brightening lotion)
SIZE40ML, PRICE £65.00 (or $86 USD)

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Zinc Oxide, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Myristyl Myristate, Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Galactoarabinan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Arbutin, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glutathione, Phytic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Silica, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Alcohol, Parfum (Natural Fragrance), Lecithin, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool PAO = 9M

This is packaged in an airless pump (awesome!) and the texture is light, but nourishing, and has a very subtle earthy floral scent that goes away within a minute. This does have an spf 8 from the zinc oxide, so I would apply separate spf if you are going to be out and about. Great for all skin types that are looking for a brightening lightweight lotion. Among the first few ingredients are some great plant based antioxidant oils followed by: 

• MSM reduces inflammation, and increases the production of pheomelanin, to reduce pigmentation, also acts as an anti-inflammatory and calms breakouts.
• HYALURONIC ACID hydrates, plumps and softens
• GALACTORABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
• LUPIN SEED (Collangeneer) boosts Collagen I synthesis and the formation and quality of the collagen matrix
• NANO BRIGHT Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
• ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES, rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4% for an even skin tone and reduced hyper-pigmentation. (OSKIA uses 2%)
• ENCAPSULATED MULTI-VITAMINS: A, C, E, and F
• ENCAPSULATED 6% VITAMIN C powerful anti-oxidant properties and boosts collagen
• OPUNTIA CACTUS EXTRACT calms irritated skin

RENAISSANCE BRIGHTLIGHT (brightening serum)
SIZE30ML, PRICE £85.00 or $113 USD  

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C Phosphate), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Zinc Glycinate, Arbutin, Glutathione, Lepidium Sativum (Cress) Sprout Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Rhodinols (Natural Rhodinol), Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Cymbopogon Martini (Organic Palmarosa) Oil, Anthemis Nobilis (Organic Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena (Organic Rose) Flower Oil, Linolenic/Linoleic Acid, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum (Ho) Wood Oil, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Pelargonium Graveolens (Organic Bourbon Geranium) Oil, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Juniperus Mexicana (Cedar) Wood Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Organic Clove) Bud Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Bisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Alcohol denat., Phenoxyethanol*, Citronellol**, Geraniol**, Linalool**, Eugenol**, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)

This orange colored serum comes in a glass bottle with a dropper applicator, with a scent that is lighter but similar to the Renaissance 360 product mentioned above. It dries quickly with no stickiness. This is a serum targeted for brightening, and it does contain a small amount of some essential oils, so SPF layered on top is mandatory! The second ingredient is a 6% phosphate form of vitamin c, followed by: 

• NANOBRIGHT:Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
• ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4%. (Oskia uses 2%)
• MSM boosts the power of Glutathione and increases the production of pheomelanin, the type of melanin that is found in fair-skinned people, relative to eumelanin, the darker type of melanin.
• 5% NIACINAMIDE (Vitamin B3) reduces post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, and increasing over-all skin lightening
• ZINC GLYCINATE stimulates the formation of an antioxidant protein to bind Copper and inhibit the production of melanin and reduces Tyrosinase.
• PASSIONFRUIT & GRAPE AHAS with PUMPKIN & PAPAYA ENZYMES gently exfoliate
• FERMENTED MINERAL POLYPEPTIDE MIX Oskia's own fermented mineral complex delivers Magnesium, Iron, Zinc and Silicon in bio-available form for a full skin cell health boost.
• PREBIOTICS help to protect the skin’s natural flora for optimum skin health by preventing the colonization of harmful bacteria.

EYE WONDER 
SIZE10ML, PRICE £48.00 or $64 USD

Ingredients: Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Whey Protein, Zinc Glycine, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Limonium Narbonense Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate Lysate, Galactoarabinan, Panthenol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Lactic Acid. 

This active eye serum is lightweight and soaks in fast. It uses a base of Rosa Damascena Flower Water but i didnt notice any scent, and there is no added fragrance. Dry skin types may need a lotion or cream on top of this for more moisture when applying makeup , but I found my concealer worked fine on top of it. 

• VITAMIN B3 (Niacinamide) reduces water loss, boosts fatty acid and ceramides, stimulates new fibroblasts, inhibits pigmentation
• VITAMIN E anti-oxidant 
• VITAMIN P strengthens the capillary walls to help reduce the appearance of dark circles. 
• MSM the most bio available form of sulphur, aids collagen production.
• ARNICA AND LAMINARIA COMPLEX rich in decongestive Vitamin P strengthens capillary walls to reduce puffiness and dark circles
• MILK PEPTIDES stimulating collagen synthesis, increasing Hyaluronic Acid production, increasing cell-to-cell communication
• GALACTOARABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
• O3 STRESSED YEAST LYSATE helpS reduce UV induced damage
• ZINC GLYCINE COMPLEX helps reduce UV induced pigmentation.
• SWISS APPLE STEM CELLS are touted to prolong the life of healthy skin cells and protect DNA. there hasn't been a ton of research in this area, so even though this is in here, I'm counting on the other proven ingredients to work
• HYALURONIC ACID & BIOSACCHARIDES for hydration

REVIEW: Rohr Remedy

When I come across a few unfamiliar ingredients in a skincare product, my interest is peaked, and that was the start of my excitement in exploring Rohr Remedy - a brand from Australia based on combining unique, wild harvested native ingredients from traditional Australian Bush medicine. The complete line, currently 8 products, is free from parabens, phthalates, petrochemicals, propylene glycol, sulphates, synthetic fragrances, bisphenol A (BPA), artificial colours, aluminium and silicones. The gorgeous packaging of all the products come in boxes of modern pastel shades, and the actual products are in super luxe, glossy black bottles and tubes. All of this, and nothing over $36 USD!

This photo is taken from Rohr Remedy website.

The following excerpt is from Australian Geographic: Australian bush medicine, much like the bush itself is still very much a mystery.  "A lot of information is lost," says Dr Evelin Tiralongo a pharmacist and expert in complementary medicine from Griffith University in Queensland. "[In Aboriginal culture], nothing is written down; instead, it's passed on through singing and dancing ceremonies, which are becoming increasingly rare."  According to Evelin most Aboriginal medical treatments were derived from food. "A big part of maintaining their health was just eating right," she says. When Aboriginal people did fall sick, they used plants in a variety of ways to quell their ills. Some plants, like were crushed, heated and applied to the skin. Others were boiled and inhaled, and occasionally drunk. There were also saps which were directly smeared on the skin, and barks that were smoked or burned. Professor Joanne Jamie, a medicinal chemist from Macquarie University, in Sydney has compiled a database on Aboriginal plants. Many of those plants, she found, contained anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory compound that are known to western medicine. "When plants are used in a customary way, there is a far greater success rate in them having biological activity," she says. "The plants that were used by the Aborigines are very likely to be useful to us."
 

Rosalina Face Cleanser, $18, 1.69fl oz
Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropul Betaine, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodiumsulfosuccinate, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, White Willow (Salix Alba) bark extract, Quandong (Santalum acuminatum) extract, Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil, Jasmine (Jasminum sambac) essential oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Packaged in a black squeeze tube with a flip up top (perfect for travel!) this cleanser might seem small in size at first glance, but a tiny pea size amount creates more then enough slightly foamy lather for the whole face...a little goes a long way. This aloe and water based cleanser's highlight is Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil which is a natural astringent. The product has a faint, subtle natural floral scent, and rinses beautifully with minimal effort, skin is left clean but not tight. This will remove makeup very well, and is suitable for all skin types.
 

Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Face Serum, $36, 1.69fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis), Kakadu plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana), Tamarind (Tamarindus indica) seed extract, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hectorite, Allantoin, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) essential oil, Xanthum gum; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

This product comes in an airtight glass bottle with a pump, perfect for keeping the ingredients active and stable. The serum feels like a light gel, it soaks into the skin quickly, doesn't feel sticky, and smells faintly of geranium, which dissipates in a few minutes. The extract from the Kakadu plum, (the third ingredient) is rich in vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant which increases collagen production (wrinkle reduction), reduces skin discolorations, strengthens the skins barrier, reduces inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, so this is a great serum for the daytime. Listed next is Tamarind Seed extract (natural source of hyaluronic acid for hydration), silk amino acid (water binding antioxidant), vitamin e (skin healing antioxidant), allantoin (soothing anti-irritant), and geranium oil (antimicrobial). Geranium oil is a fragrant oil that can be an irritant, but when used in small amounts like it is here, there is no cause for concern. This is an excellent vitamin c serum for all skin types!

Lilly Pilly and Omega 3 Face Moisturizer $24, 1.69fl oz
Aqua (purified water), Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) oil, Macadamia (Macadamia ternifolia) nut oil, Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, Glycerin, Lilly Pilly (Syzygium leuhmanii) extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydrolysed Oats (Avena sativa), Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Stearyl Glutamate, Allantoin, Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) essential oil, Rose (Rosa centifolia) essential oil, Australian Sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) wood oil; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Packaged in a squeeze tube, this is a lightweight lotion with a subtle sweet earthy scent. It soaks in quickly but leaves skin feeling hydrated with no surface residue or stickiness, perfect for normal to dry skin not prone to breakouts. On the list, following water, comes two esters derived from olive oil (rich in antioxidants), then three hydrating oils- rice bran, macadamia and sweet almond. Next up is glycerin (my favorite humectant), and the rare Lilly Pilly. Typing that is almost as fun as saying it out loud! Lilly Pilly, a bush medicine of Indigenous Australians for internal and external healing, is a rich source of vitamin c- it also assists the repair of weathered skin and the astringent property provides gentle exfoliation. Hydrolyses Oats is the anti-irritant and we also see another appearance of silk amino acid, vitamin e and allantoin. There is a small amount of fragrant essential oils, but the tiny amounts are not cause for concern however for very sensitive skin, always do a test patch first.
 

Boab and Rosehip with Vitamin E Oil, $30, 1.69fl oz
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (fractionated Coconut oil), organic Boab (Adansonia gregorii) oil, organic Rosehip (Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa) seed oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Frankincense (Boswellia cateri) essential oil

This rich, nourishing oil comes in a glass bottle with a dropper style applicator. Excellent formal for super dry skin, or even on the body as a little goes a long way. The superstars in this are the Boab oil, which contains high levels of Vitamin C and Calcium, along with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to encourage smoother skin, and during pregnancy help prevent and manage stretch marks. Vitamin A rich rosehip oil provides excellent healing and slows early aging. The last ingredient, frankincense oil, is a fragrant component, but when used in tiny amounts, there isn't cause for concern. As always, patch test for sensitivity if you are on the sensitive side.

Gumbi Gumbi Lip Balm, $12, 0.5fl oz
Lanolin, Castor (Ricinus communis) oil, Beeswax, Gumbi Gumbi (Pittosporum phylliraeoides) infused Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Peppermint (Mentha piperita) essential oil, Orange (Citrus sinensis) essential oil

Packaged in a chic glossy black squeeze tube, this balm combines the classic apothecary formula of castor oil, lanolin and Vitamin E with Saponin-rich Gumbi Gumbi, which has antibacterial and antiviral properties and can also help prevent colds and flu, aids repair of cracked lips. The peppermint and orange oils will give this a slight hint of flavor and smell.
 

Australian Wildflower Deodorant, $12, 1.0 fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bi-carbonate of Soda, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Rosalina (Melaleuca ericifolia) oil, Kunzea ambigua, Fragonia (Agonis fragrans) essential oil, Carrageenan/Seaweed (Chondrus crispus) extract, Xanthum Gum, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (preservatives)

Normally I shy away from deodorants that are in a rollerball applicator, because that tells me the deodorant is a liquid and liquid deodorants are usually sticky and seem to stay sticky on me. This surprisingly kept me dry, and it dries within a few minutes of applying, no stickiness! The essential oils I had never heard of before, they are from Australian wildflowers Rosalina, Kunzea and Fragonia, used by Indigenous Australians for healing, and have deodorising and antibacterial properties. The scent for me is like fresh cut herbs, but doesn't linger more then a few minutes.

photo taken from www.rohrremedy.com

Honey Myrtle Body Wash, $21, 16.9 fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Vera(Aloe barbadensis), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Quandong (Santalum acuminatum) fruit extract, Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) fruit extract, White Willow (Salix alba) bark extract, Honey Myrtle (Melaleuca teretifolia) branch/leaf oil, Pink Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) peel oil, Xanthum Gum; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

This is a gel body wash, housed in bottle with with a pump. It smells HEAVENLY- a citrusy, clean green scent that I didn't want to rinse off! Left skin clean and refreshed, but not tight. As for the ingredients, they are all super gentle cleansing agents, and combines the anti bacterial power of Honey Myrtle with healing properties of the Quandong plant. With body washes, the antioxidant content doesn't matter so much since its rinsed down the drain quickly, but hey, every little bit helps. 

photo taken from www.rohrremedy.com

Desert Lime Body Moisturizer, $24, 8.45fl oz
Aqua (Purified Water), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (fractionated Coconut oil), Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Olive (Olea europaea) oil, Coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, Glycerin, Desert Lime (Citrus glauca) extract, Giant Kelp (Macrocystis pyriferae) extract, Wattle (Acacia dealbata) flower oil, Mandarin (Citrus reticulata) oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Black Pepper (Piper nigrum) seed oil, Hydrolysed Oats (Avena sativa), Sodium Lactate, Silk Amino Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate; Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (preservatives)

Similar packaging to the body wash, this body lotion is a lotion texture but stays slightly moist for about ten minutes after application, which i love. but also could just be because i use a huge amount when moisturizing. With a smell so fresh and citrusy, its easy to just keep slathering more on! Hydrating coconut and olive oils nourish, and the Desert Lime extract assists skin repair due to a high level of antioxidants, including Vitamin C, and was in traditional use by Indigenous Australians for its revitalizing qualities. The rich nutrients from Australia’s Giant Kelp help retain skin moisture and softness. I need a uplifting scent when applying body lotion, and this lingered for some time after but its subtle, not strong enough to compete with any perfume you may put on. Another gorgeous product! 

THE 101: LED light therapy

LED = Light Emitting Diodes. This is one of my favorite technologies the past few years that I include with almost all of my facial and skincare services, it can even be done as a seperate stand alone treatment without a facial for those that want to come in more often. LED can be done a number of ways. In an office setting, we use the OmniLux LED device it to treat aging skin, acne, and rosacea, and they can be done in a series (of weekly treatments) or just once in a while with your facial, depending on what we are treating. The treatments are painless, relaxing, have no downtime, and safe for almost everyone unless you have a history of epilepsy or on medications that cause light sensitivity like tetracycline.

Now onto the science on HOW this awesome light therapy works! The general function is the LED penetrates through the epidermis into the dermis layer of the skin, energizing the fibroblast cells that are responsible for producing collagen. Collagen and Elastin are produced in cells called fibroblasts and Inside these cells is a smaller cellular structure called mitochondria. Mitochondria are responsible for converting nutrients into an energy carrier known scientifically as Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP). This (ATP) fuels the cell's activities; it basically gives the cells the needed energy to do their job. This is the reason Mitochondria are frequently referred to as the powerhouse of the cell. LED sends light rays into the Fibroblast cells, which in turn excite the Mitochondria into producing in some cases up to 10 times more ATP. This fuels the cell's activities, which causes more of the needed Collagen and Elastin to be produced, as well as other needed materials for the skin.  Over time the dermis layer fills up with collagen pushing the fold of the wrinkle out. Collagen helps to plump up the skin thus diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. Nice! The process is similar to plant photosynthesis. the light emitted by the LED is absorbed by epidermal cells and produces a cascade of events. As the light passes through the skin, different components of cells are affected by various wavelengths, stimulating certain beneficial effects:  

-stimulates tissue granulation and connective tissue, which is part of the healing process of wounds, ulcers, and imflamed tissue
-reduces MMP-1 (collagenase) in the papillary dermis, therefore increasing collagen deposition and improving skin texture
-reduction in small blood vessels; infrared increases vascularity by increasing formation of new capillaries, a process called angiogenesis.

There also is blue LED light, which can be great for skin types that are sensitive or allergic to topical antibacterial products. The blue LED has its own set of benefits, it causes the development of oxygen radicals that kill P. acnes bacteria without damaging healthy skin. For acne, I recommend using a combo of blue and red devices. The red treats the inflammation and redness and the blue treats the bacterial component. 

Here are some great studies showing the benefits of LED, but a quick google search can lead you to hundreds more!

http://media.wix.com/ugd/d80b7e_763ee0dae52e03de53c81b25e9487799.pdf
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/full/10.1021/cg8000703
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16414908
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4479368/
 
Another way to get the benefits of LED is to try an 'at home' device, which have been gaining popularity the last few years. While an FDA approved LED device for home use will usually have similar specs as the professional devices we use in our office, the main difference will be the number of LED's being used. For example, the machine in our office will have hundreds of LEDS, while an at home device will usually have 25 to 50, so the in office professional treatments will gave you faster results. However if you are diligent with using your at home device, it can absolutely improve your skin, and even be used to prolong the results of your professional in-office treatments. I feel the decision on professional treatments vs using an LED at home, comes down to a few things to consider: 

-Time: In office treatment takes about 20 minutes once a week (or twice, depending on how fast you want to finish your series) but at home LED can take up to an hour to treat the full face. However, if you only want to treat a small area of the face, for example eye area, or random acne prone areas, then your home treatment time won't be a huge factor. In office treatments mean you are making a trip to the office, where as using an at home device gives you more flexibility.
-Professional guidance for more serious conditions. If you struggle with rosacea or acne, having professional treatments and monitoring your condition, combined with an effective at home regimen may give you faster, or more effective results. 
-Cost. Office treatments cost between $75 to $150 per session, where as the initial investment of a home-use LED device will run around $300 to $500.

Two great devices I recommend often are the Baby Quasar and Light Stim. Recently, I started playing around with a new FDA-approved device from Truth Vitality that has three different modes, red, blue and ultrasound. These are used independently as in they don't work all at the same time, which is nice so you can treat separate areas with the specific modality you need. As for how the ultrasound works, it enhances product penetration and increases fibroblastic activity and collagen formation. You can read more about how the ultrasound works directly from them here. So far I have been really impressed with this device! It's a great price, and easy to use. I will report back on the ultrasound benefits, as they are cumulative, and I'm giving it a full 3 month test run! 

REVIEW: Juara

Juara was on my radar after getting a sample of the Candlenut Body Cream through a monthly beauty subscription box, and it was love at first smell. Subtle tropical scents are my weakness, and add to that a luxe, nourishing texture, this easily became my go-to body cream all last summer. Recently, I found out they had a face skin care line in addition to the amazing body products, and after looking at the ingredients, was eager to take a look and try some.

The brand was started by four women and is based on the Indonesian Jamu tradition - which is an ancient herbal medicinal tradition that has been around for hundreds of years where they use specific natural ingredients to treat specific skin and health issues orally and topically. In Indonesia today, even with the prevalence of western medicine, the government still recognizes Jamu as a medicinal practice, with its own set of local FDA rules. Very cool! The line is also 100% vegetarian & PETA approved, dermatologist tested, paraben-free, sulfate-free, phthalate-free, and no irritants, harsh chemicals, and is sustainably sourced. For more info, http://www.juaraskincare.com. Onto the reviews! 

Rice Facial Cleanser, 4.5 fl oz, $29           

This pumps out as a gel/lotion hybrid, and foams slightly. The smell is a heavenly tropical luxe (but subtle) that is almost too good to rinse. I massaged this in my face longer then any other cleanser I've used, and as silly as this sounds, makes me really happy. It rinses off completely, no residue left behind, and doesn't strip skin. It removed all my makeup, didn't sting my eyes, and just left my skin super soft. The cleansing agents are coconut derived, and sulfate free. This is absolutely a great cleanser for all skin types.

Ingredients: Water, Decyl Glucoside*, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate*, Coco-Glucoside*, Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) Oleosomes, Glyceryl Oleate*, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Extract, Carrageenan*, Xanthan Gum*, Sodium Levulinate, Potassion Sorbate, Citric Acid, Natural Fragrance. * NPA, ECOCERT or COSMOS Approved

Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner                4.5 fl oz, $32 

Great toners are hard to come by, they are usually loaded with alcohol and irritants. For oily skin, this may be your antioxidant layer that is lighter then a lotion or serum. For dryer skin, think of this as a boost before applying your other products. Too many antioxidants? No such thing! There is no fragrance to this, and its a pump so you can use a cotton pad or just splash on with fingertips. I wish this came in a mist form, but that is just a personal preference. The ingredient list is short but mighty. Tamarind seed extract works to increase the skin’s hydration level and .2%  hyaluronic acid makes skin feel instantly soft and supple. The white, green, and black tea extracts provides antioxidant benefits and vitamin-rich rice bran provides calming benefits, minimizing the appearance of redness. No sticky residue and soaks in within seconds. 

Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner Ingredients: Water, Pentylene Glycol, Tamarind Seed (Tamarindus indica) Extract, White Tea, Green Tea, Black Tea (Camellia sinensis) Extract, Rice (Oryza sativa) Bran Extract, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate.

Sweet Black Tea & Rice Moisturizer         1.7 fl oz, $55 

This lightweight lotion has a faint, subtle tea smell that fades in a minute, and absorbs quickly into the skin leaving it glowy, not greasy. Normal to dry skin types will love this. The first few ingredients are candlenut oil, and three different ingredients derived from olive oil, so this starts out with some effective, potent antioxidants. The rest of the ingredient list reads the same, its antioxidant after antioxidant, most which also have nourishing and anti-inflammatory properties. Another highlight is fermented sweet black tea, also known in Indonesia as “miracle tea” or “kombucha,” which is rich in energizing Vitamin B. Hyaluronic acid, and other active botanicals round out the ingredients, which make this a product I loved, and would also highly recommend.

Sweet Black Tea & Rice Moisturizer Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether*, Cetearyl Olivate*, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate*, Cetearyl Alcohol*, Glycerin, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Oil, Avocado (Persea gratissima) Oil, Phytosterols, Olive (Olea europaea) Fruit Oil, Aamla (Phyllanthus emblica) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids, Ferulic acid, Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate, Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Leaf Extract,  Illipe (Shorea stenoptera) Seed Butter, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Extract, Five Flavor Berry (Schizandra chinensis) Fruit Extract*, Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, Tocopherol , Xanthan Gum*, Cetyl Palmitate*, Sorbitan Palmitate*, Sorbitan Oleate*, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phytate, Natural Fragrance.

Miracle Tea Complete Eye Creme             .5 fl oz, $48 

The texture of this eye cream was perfect for me, silky but not rich, and let my concealer go on smooth. There is a subtle, natural earthy smell that is barely noticeable. The ingredient list is very similar to the moisturizer mentioned above, with some welcome additions suited for the eye area. Marigold is known to decrease inflammation, promote lymphatic drainage, and lessen the appearance of dark circles and broken capillaries. Score! Next are some algaes, ferulic acid, and herbs, all which will lighten and brighten the delicate under eye skin. This is another superstar product from Juara!

Ingredients: Water, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Dicaprylyl Ether*, Cetearyl Olivate*, Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) Butter, Stearyl Alcohol, Rice Bran (Oryza sativa) Oil, Sorbitan Olivate*, Cetearyl Alcohol*, Avocado (Persea gratissima) Oil, Phytosterols, Olive (Olea europaea) Fruit Oil,  Illipe (Shorea stenoptera) Seed Butter, Aamla (Phyllanthus emblica) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate,  Tetrahydrocurcuminoids, Ferulic acid, Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate, Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) Leaf Extract, Plankton Extract, Brown Algae (Ascophyllum nodosum) Extract, Red Algae (Asparagopsis armata) Extract, Golden Chamomile (Chrysanthellum indicum) Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, Five Flavor Berry (Schizandra chinensis) Fruit Extract*, Cetyl Palmitate*, Sorbitan Palmitate*, Sorbitan Oleate*, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Bismuth Oxychloride, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum*, Sodium Phytate. * NPA, ECOCERT or COSMOS Approved

Turmeric Antioxidant Radiance Mask        3 oz, $37 

This mask comes out creamy, and has a faint earthy, natural smell. The base is water, glycerin (a skin repairing ingredient), kaolin (an oil absorbing clay) and candlenut oil (non-fragrant plant oil that is an anti-inflammatory and wound healing). Next up is tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, a extract  from turmeric that is known for brightening and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Then we have Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane (lol longest name ever) which is a synthetic antioxidant that provides the protective effects of potent antioxidant curcumin but without the deep yellow coloration. This also has an anti-inflammatory benefit as well as reducing the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) which destroy collagen. The antioxidants continue with carrot seed oil and vitamin E. While masks aren't totally necessary (think of them as boosters) this is a nice indulgence for any skin type that will leave your skin soft and glowy.

Turmeric Antioxidant Radiance Mask Ingredients: Water/Eau, Glycerin, Kaolin Clay, Candlenut (Aleurites moluccana) Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Myristyl Myristate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahyrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carrot (Daucus Carota sativa) Seed Oil, Vitamin E (Tocopheryl) Acetate, Hydroxyethylacrlyate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenypropanol, Polysorbate 60.

THE 101: Microneedling

Microneedling has been around for over ten years, but over the past two years it has gained popularity (the infamous Kim Kardashian selfie maybe had something to do with that). There are two different methods of application. The first, is when microneedling is done as procedure using a device (I use Rejuvapen or rollers made by Environ) performed in our office during a facial treatment, although it can also be done without a facial for those patients that are coming in for a series of treatments. It takes about 20 minutes in total. The second way micro needling is done is at home with a dermaroller, which looks like a tiny paint roller, but with little needles. 

In the office setting, microneedling is fully customized for your skin depending on your skin concerns, as we can control the depth of the needle penetration and how many passes we do over the skin. The tip that fits on the end of the Rejuvapen is disposable and a new one is opened for each patient. I am sure you are thinking "um, OUCH" but this treatment actually isn't painful, nor are you a bloody mess afterwards! Two things are achieved with microneedling. The first is that because we are creating little temporary invisible  'channels' so that a cocktail of ingredients (stem cells, growth factors, vitamins, etc) penetrate your skin faster and deeper. The second is that these microscopic controlled 'injuries' to your skin prompts your body to repair and create more collagen, very similar to how fractional laser works, but without the heat. This treatment is great for improving texture, and certain types of scars including acne scars, but all skin types (except if you have active acne) can benefit from it. Just like most treatments, a series of 3 to 6 are recommended. You will be a little pink after, possibly a little puffy with a tight feeling, but it subsides after 24 hours.

Another way we use microneedling to treat fine lines and wrinkles is to combine it with PRP, which stands for Platelet Rich Plasma. This treatment starts with one of our physicians. The PRP is a concentrated serum processed from your own blood. It is obtained by taking a small vial of blood from your arm, then placed in a vial and spun in a centrifuge to separate the red blood cells and plasma. The process concentrates the platelet count to about 4X normal. It is this platelet-rich plasma, often called “liquid gold”, that is then activated and injected into the skin as a natural filler for volume and plumping fine lines. I then use micro needling to infuse the remaining PRP into the skin. PRP has been used for years to speed joint, tendon and tissue repair and is a popular treatment for professional athletes. 

At home, microneedling done at home is with the use of a dermaroller. I recommend rollers from Environ for their quality, they use ultra fine needles of the highest grade stainless steel.  They are also much shorter needles then the versions used in the office, about .1 to .2 in length so they don't tear or break the skin. They also make a stamp version, but I think the rollers are easier to use. It can be used from once a week to every other night and in the nighttime only. Use your roller during your skin regime after taking off makeup, cleansing, and toning, and before applying skin care moisturizers or specialized products as recommended by your esthetician or dermatologist.  Normally we recommend to start by rolling twice a week and slowly increase to using a few times a week. Divide the area you wish to treat into sections - on the face, forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the mouth area. On the face, start on the forehead and roll vertically.  Gradually move across the skin until the forehead has been totally treated in a vertical direction.  Then roll at an angle and finally horizontally, rolling over each area of skin at least two to five times in each direction. Treat each area sequentially until the whole face, neck and decollete have been treated thoroughly and evenly for 3-5 minutes in total. The roller is individually owned and cannot be shared and is only used on clean skin.  It is important to rinse the roller after each use with water and once a week using a special cleaning solution, then storing it in the cool dry storage it comes in. When using a roller a few times a week: toss it out and replacing it everymonth; if used less frequently used rollers will last longer.

The Environ rollers we recommend can ONLY be bought through a doctor or esthetician. They dont sell products or rollers online. I feel this helps my patients be thoroughly informed on what they are doing. The rollers also come with very detailed instructions. There are many retailers of dermarollers onine, with really long length needles meant for treating stretch marks, scars, even cellulite. Please talk with your esthetician or dermatologist before using such intense treatments like those at home.

When ingredients from whatever you apply after needling go deeper into skin, the risk of possible irritation goes up, which is why you should do a patch test of all products you wish to apply after micro-needling. Also never use this tool on skin that is irritated, inflamed, has active eczema, or active acne & breakouts.