REVIEW: Goop Skincare

I personally feel organic skincare really comes down to personal preference. There is a huge misconception that all synthetic/non-organic ingredients are bad and that all organic/natural ingredients are better. There is no published research to date showing organic ingredients are better or safer for your skin when it comes to skincare. Just because something IS natural/organic, doesn't mean its safe for your skin.  An organic irritant is still an irritant. There is numerous published research that shows when skin is irritated, it not only causes collagen to break down, but impairs the skin's ability to heal. For the record, I really LOVE a lot of organic and green beauty brands and products, and use a lot of them myself. For a more insight, you can check out my previous post about the FDA and natural ingredients. Back to Goop..I was hoping from a lot more from this line, considering I think the Goop team puts in a lot of effort to research the products they support and brands they partner with. I spoke with Yahoo Beauty about this the other day, you can read more about it here: https://www.yahoo.com/beauty/what-it-costs-to-do-skincare-like-gwyneth-paltrow-185826262.html

Onto the ingredients!  (all images and ingredient lists are taken from goop.com)

LUMINOUS MELTING CLEANSER  This smells heavenly, and undoubtedly it is hard to not want to rub it all over your face. But don't, here's why..The first four oils mentioned are found in your typical oil based cleansers, but right after those comes the 'essential oil blend' which are all commonly known irritants. This isn't going to stay on your skin long enough for those irritants to cause trouble, since it is a cleanser and is only in contact with the skin a short time, but why not use an oil cleanser that is 100% safe from irritants! Oil cleansers will remove makeup, but unless you have super dry skin with no visible pores in sight, you still should use a water soluble face wash after an oil cleanser. Or just avoid them completely. Also this is $90! What?? NO! Just, no.  

• Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter.

EXFOLIATING INSTANT FACIAL  Most of this line's products starts with grape juice, apple juice, and lemon juice. Grape and apple I can get behind, but lemon is a common irritant along with the 'essential oil blend' that follows. Similar to a cleanser, this isn't staying on your skin very long, but exfoliation should be done gently, and combining exfoliation with irritating ingredients is never a good idea.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetyl Esters, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glycolic Acid, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Coco-Glucoside, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit Extract, Malic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Gluconolactone, Tartaric Acid, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Panthenyl Triacetate.

REVITALIZING DAY MOISTURIZER  The second ingredient is lemon juice, which is a BAD idea for a leave on product. Lemons, limes, and some other citrus fruits can cause something called phytophotodermatitis (PPD) upon exposure to sunlight. Results from this can be a rash or brown discolorations. A quick google search on this will scare you straight! This is not something you want to have on your skin during the day. If that weren't bad enough, this also has the 'essential oil blend' that is a mix of known irritants, and should absolutely not be in a face product.  For more info on lemon juice and limonene, check out http://www.inchem.org/documents/cicads/cicads/cicad05.htm and http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19125719. There are some other great ingredients in this, its unfortunate that the bad really outweighs the good.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Glycerin*, Vegetable Oil, Diheptyl Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spitacus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Stearic Acid, Squalane, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet's Daffodil) Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Behenyl Behenate, Tribehenin, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pullulan, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid.
   

REPLENISHING NIGHT CREAM  This is very similar to the day cream, and the same review applies. This is also packaged in a jar, which even if it was full of amazing ingredients, they wouldn't stay active very long. Ironic note: the description of this product says  "...while linseed extract and hyaluronic acid hydrate, lift and firm" and you will notice hyaluronic listed as the second to LAST ingredient. 

• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Gluconolactone, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, And Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil*, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Behenyl Behenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate.

PERFECTING EYE CREAM  Again we see lemon juice as the second ingredient. This eye cream leaves out the 'essential oil blend' found in the other products, and follows with a great line up. However the jar packaging (oxygen exposure makes actives less active) and the high lemon juice content make this easy to pass over.

• Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Vegetable Oil, Glycerin*, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Jojoba Esters, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil.

ENRICHING FACE OIL  This starts out with some great oils, but then the 6th and 7th ingredients, the known irritants: bitter orange and rose germanium turn this into a product I would also skip applying on my face due to possible risks of irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. 

• Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil*, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*, Borago Officinalis (Starflower) Seed Oil*, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil.*

THE 101: Korean Beauty

Fashion trends are a funny thing, and I’ll be the first to admit I’ve had my share of trendy impulse buys. Skincare trends, like anything else, come and go - but with such a heavy push from advertising, social media, bloggers, and beauty stores- this is one trend I foresee sticking around for a while. Some of these brands have exceptionally well formulated products (Dr Jart, Amore Pacific, SK-II), and will most likely remain staples at popular stores like Sephora. I picked some of the ‘best-sellers’ from a few different Korean beauty specialty websites to review.

IMAGE: sephora

A few more thoughts...

• While there are absolutely some unique and new ingredients that have come out of Korea (think snail secretions and fermented everything) they are not only to able acquired and used by brands made in Korea. Also to note, a lot of these unique ingredients don't have much research, if any, behind them yet to back up the claims.

• In my opinion, the generalization that Korean women (and lots of other asian nationalities) seem to have more youthful skin then other nationalities is most likely because they seem to be more dilligent with their sun protection, which would explain a LOT.

• A lot of Korean items I am seeing are just renamed! For instance, 'essences' are very similar to toners (not the astringent toners that may come to mind, but the hydrating ones), 'patches' are usually masks, and 'sleeping masks' are usually thick night creams.

 

MIZON ALL-IN-ONE SNAIL REPAIR CREAM  

Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Dimethicone, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glyocol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Rh-oligopeptide-1, Propylene Glycol, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Beta-glucan, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Disodium Edta

The company claims that the first ingredient, the snail secretion, makes up 92% of the product, and will reduce acne scars. Also to note, this company, along with many other brands use snail secretion in different forms- masks, serums, night cream, you name it. The ONE and only published research I could find on this used snail secretion from a little creature called “Snail Cryptomphalus Aspersa” or SCA. They concluded daily application of topical products tested  on 25 people containing SCA proved effective and well tolerated for improvement in some wrinkles but did not report a significant difference in the quality of their skin. What species of snail goo is this brand using- is it the same as the snails from the study? Are the snails harmed? Too many unanswered questions, not enough research. This also contains some ingredients that could potentially clog pores, AND it is also packaged in a jar, which means some of the actual researched ingredients (even in the tiny amounts that are present here) can go bad quickly anyway. Bottom Line: I wouldn't recommend using snail products until more research is shown that this is proven to be beneficial. 

 

BANILA CO. CLEAN IT ZERO

Mineral Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, Polyethylene, Butylene Glycol, Water, Rubus Suavissimus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinesis Root Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Leaf Extract, BHT, Butylparaben, CI 16255, CI 15985, Fragrance

if you wear a lot of makeup and find there is still residue after you wash, then a ‘double cleanse’ or using a 'precleanser' may be right for you. All ‘double cleanse’ means is using two different products to wash, the first pre cleanse being geared towards removing makeup (like cleansing oils or balms) and the second to cleanse the skin once all that makeup is off and to remove any traces of the first cleanse (usually gel or foamy formulas).  This particular product would be the first step in your double cleanse to get off makeup, it is mineral oil base and comes in solid form, but starts to liquify into a oil when you start rubbing it together. I wouldnt rely on this as my only cleanser because it does leave a little residue, and needs a gel or foam to really get off any traces of it. There are some antioxidants present, but in a cleanser those ingredients are useless because they don't stay on the skin long to do much. This product has a faint citrus smell and does contain a small amount fragrance. Bottom Line: If your need to thoroughly remove makeup and your cleanser isnt cutting it, this is a safe and effective option as a precleanser.

CAOLION BLACKHEAD O2 BUBBLE PORE PACK

Water, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Ethyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysorbate 60, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour, Charcoal Powder, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Peg/ppg-18/18dimethicone, Peg-100 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, C12-16 Alcohols, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (licorice) Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Trideceth-6, Disodium Edta

There are quite a few products referred to as ‘packs’, which is usually just another name for mask! The first few ingredients are what gives this product the fizzy bubbling sensation on the skin, then follows some cleansing detergents and some emollients. The inclusion of charcoal has oil absorbing properties. The directions say to apply it to the skin, wait for it to start getting fizzy, massage it in (there is a slight grit to this, so you will get a mild exfoliation), wait a few more minutes then rinse. Bottom Line: This won't do much for your blackheads, but it's a fun option as a mask for normal to oily skin as a way to exfoliate and absorb excess oil.

CREMORLAB MINERAL TREATMENT ESSENCE

Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (matricaria) Flower Water, Saccharomyces Ferment, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Water, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Betaine, Peg/ppg-17/6 Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Pvm/ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol

Essences are used like toners, they are liquids that are applied after cleansing but before lotions/creams/serums. These ingredients can absolutely be found in those products also, but for normal to oily skin which normally shies away from creamy textures, essences are a great way to give the skin a dose of vitamins, antioxidants, and hydration. The Rosa Centifolia Flower Water which makes up most of this essence, is different from the widely used traditional rose or rose oils which are a huge concern for irritation- this one works as an antioxidant. Niacinamide, which is prevalent in a lot of essences I looked at is an amazing cell-communicating ingredient with a ton of anti-aging properties. The rest of the list reads as safe with proven anti-irritants, and more antioxidants. Bravo! Bottom Line: Safe and effective for all skin types, essences can be a nice booster before your current routine. I'll be using these types of products in the humid weather instead of a lotion.

PRIMERA MIRACLE SEED ESSENCE

Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium Edta, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Methyl Gluceth-20, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-hexanediol.

This is an essence geared towards dry skin, as the first ingredient (nelumbo nucifera germ extract) which will make up most the product, is a humectant and will attract moisture. The niacinamide in this comes in as second on the list, one of my favorite cell communicating ingredients that can even out skin tone and improve elasticity. Followed by some more hydrating ingredients like glycerin and  sodium hyaluronate, and finishing with a ferment (antioxidant) and some more preservatives. Bottom Line: Safe, effective, and could be a great booster for dry skin before your other moisturizers/treatments, or even used solo.

 

MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE

Saccharomyces ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium -51, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Betaine, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Pirper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Beta vulgaris (Beet) Root extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Trehalose, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Raffinose, Tromethamine, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, 1, 2 - Hexanediol, Caprytyl Glycol, Hexapeptide - 9 Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

The first two ingredients are ferments that are skin conditioning agents, also with limited research saying they have some antioxidant capabilities. Next up is a propanediol (humectant) and the superstar niacinamide. The rest of the list has some additional antioxidants, anti-irritants, and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: This is a great way for all skin types to hydrate and give your skin a dose of necessary ingredients used solo or before applying a cream/lotion or serum. If you choose to add an essence or toner to your routine, try putting a few drops in your palm and swiping it onto the skin. Using a cotton pad tends to waste a lot of product.

TONYMOLY PANDA DREAM EYE PATCH

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sorbitol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Erythritol, Trehalose, Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Pulp Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

I love seeing glycerin and niacinamide within the first five ingredients, but the excitement stops there. Next listed is a few preservatives and slip agents followed by ‘fragrance’. If fragrance was the last ingredient, I wouldn’t be concerned, but I dont want to see it before the nice array of antioxidants and hydrating ingredients. Bottom Line: I personally wont be using these cutesy eye patches due to the excessive amount of fragrance, but if your skin isn't sensitive to fragrance, these can absolutely be a refreshing and hydrating treat for your under eyes.

RE:P BIO FRESH MASK WITH REAL CALMING HERB

Water, Kaoline, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexadiol, Artemisia Annua Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Triticum Spelta Seed Water, Calendula Officinalis Flower, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Powder, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Safflower Yellow, Gardenia Red, Fragrance

This is a kaolin clay based mask, and Kaolin has absorbent properties which makes it a nice option for oily skin. Following the clay come a few emmolient and emulsifying ingredients to keep this product creamy and in its solid form. The herbs/plant extracts and the rest of the ingredients following are safe in low concentrations, but antioxidants and anti-inflammatories work best when they are left on the skin, instead of rinsing off them, which you have to do when using a mask! The inclusion fragrance and coloring are miniscule amounts which arent cause for concern since they are the last three ingredients listed. Bottom Line: This mask can absolutely help control excess oil when used once or twice a week without overdrying.

MIZON GOOD NIGHT WHITE SLEEPING MASK

Aqua, Cyclomethicone, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Trehalose, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp Copolymer, Triethanolmaine, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Broussonetia Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Pantethine, Placental Protein, Natto Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Disodium Edta, Methyl Parabven, Propyl Paraben, Ci17200, Ci42090, Fragrance

Sleeping masks or sleeping packs appear to be thick night creams, normally geared towards dry skin. The high amount of cyclomethicone (a silicone emollient) in this Mizon product is going to prevent moisture loss without suffocating skin. Next up is niacinamide (a cell communicating ingredient with multiple anti-aging benefits), trehalose (a water binder), and glycerin to prevent dryness. The alcohol present isn't cause for concern since it's surrounded by so many hydrators. After another silicone, comes a nice dose of sodium hyaluronte, which has cell-communicating abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, reduce inflammation, and help prevent moisture loss. The few antioxidants and anti-inflammatories follow a few more thickeners, and the fragrance and colorants are the last three ingredients so cause for irritation is very minimal. Bottom Line: This could be a deeply hydrating night product but I would layer it on top of other treatment products like antioxidants and retinoids than relying on this solely to give your skin everything it needs.

The FDA & Organic Beauty Products, & Some Thoughts

Here is a copy of what the FDA says about organic cosmetics, taken from their website

Does FDA have a definition for the term “organic”?

No. FDA regulates cosmetics under the authority of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). The term “organic” is not defined in either of these laws or the regulations that FDA enforces under their authority.

How is the term “organic” regulated?

The Agricultural Marketing Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) oversees the National Organic Program (NOP). The NOP regulations include a definition of “organic” and provide for certification that agricultural ingredients have been produced under conditions that would meet the definition. They also include labeling standards based on the percentage of organic ingredients in a product. For more information on "organic" labeling for cosmetics, see the NOP publication, "Cosmetics, Body Care Products, and Personal Care Products." 

If a cosmetic is labeled “organic” according to the USDA, is it still subject to the laws and regulations enforced by FDA?

Yes. The USDA requirements for the use of the term “organic” are separate from the laws and regulations that FDA enforces for cosmetics. Cosmetic products labeled with organic claims must comply with both USDA regulations for the organic claim and FDA regulations for labeling and safety requirements for cosmetics. Information on FDA’s regulation of cosmetics is available on our Cosmetics website.

Are cosmetics made with “organic” ingredients safer for consumers than those made with ingredients from other sources?

No. An ingredient’s source does not determine its safety. For example, many plants, whether or not they are organically grown, contain substances that may be toxic or allergenic. For more on this subject, see FDA Poisonous Plant Database. Under the FD&C Act, all cosmetic products and ingredients are subject to the same safety requirement: They must be safe for consumers under labeled or customary conditions of use (FD&C Act, section 601(a). Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure that their products and ingredients are safe for the intended use. 

Life is all about balance, and I think that also applies to our skincare and beauty routines. If you prefer to use all organic or green beauty brands, that great! If you don't, thats great too! I think in regards to the brands and products we buy and support, a lot of it comes down to preference. Is organic jojoba oil better, safer, or more effective then non-organic jojoba oil? All signs point to no. Once a plant or flower is harvested, cleaned, processed and ready to be included in a skincare or makeup product, the sterilization process ensures no pesticides remain. There is still no proven research stating that an organic ingredient in skincare is superior. With the demand of clean ingredients, and brands being more transparent, that will probably change soon and I look forward to learning more about all of this. 

There are so many exceptional plant and flower based ingredients that have solid data showing how beneficial they are to the skin and some of these can be found in green and clean beauty brands, amongst others. However, just with all products, there are many naturally sourced ingredients that are common irritants, which can cause irritation, allergies, and sensitivity in your skin. Repeated rritation and inflammation causes collagen breakdown, and can slow your skin's ability to heal. Just because you aren't having a red splotch or rash, doesn't mean inflammation isn't still happening below the surface. Think of it the same way our bodies handle sugar or processed food that trigger internal inflammation; you may not see the long term effects right away but that doesn't mean its not happening. You don't want to see these types of ingredients high up on your products ingredient list. To learn about some common ingredients you may want to avoid, check out https://www.futurederm.com/five-natural-ingredients-that-can-irritate-your-skin/  

Another really great article to check out: http://www.racked.com/2016/5/5/11591300/natural-skincare-clean-beauty-toxins

For those that want to delve into this deeper, I use these resources a LOT: 

• http://www.journals.elsevier.com/journal-of-ethnopharmacology

• http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

• http://www.karger.com

If you are looking for organic beauty products, there are some terms to know when reading labels. Here in the United States, the FDA doesn't regulate organic claims for cosmetics, skincare and personal care products. However the the USDA and ECOCERT have some regulations and systems for standards on organic plant claims in skincare/beauty. On the packaging of your product, you may find a few seals or labels of different certification agencies. They vary in standards so it is best to just look up the agency and see if their standards match what you are looking for in terms of organic. If the product has the USDA seal, these are the guidelines that are followed: https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Labeling%20Organic%20Products.pdf

The following is an excerpt from an article written by beauty expert, Paula Begoun, that I think is worth mentioning..
Dr. Linda M. Katz, director of the Food and Drug Administration's Office of Cosmetics and Colors stated in 2007 that "Consumers should not necessarily assume that an 'organic' or 'natural' ingredient or product would possess greater inherent safety than another chemically identical version of the same ingredient. In fact, 'natural' ingredients may be harder to preserve against microbial contamination and growth than synthetic raw materials" (Source: New York Times, November 1, 2007).

Joan Shaffer, USDA spokeswoman stated that "…people should not interpret even the USDA Organic seal or any organic seal of approval on cosmetics as proof of health benefits or of efficacy," said. The National Organic Program is a marketing program, not a safety program. [Chocolate cake] may be [natural or organic] but that has no bearing on whether it is safe or nutritious to eat" (Source: www.ams.usda.gov/nop/FactSheets/Backgrounder.html).

I'm not trying to deter anyone away from buying organic skincare and supporting green beauty brands, as I purchase and support a lot of these myself. I just think its important when forming opinions to try to get as much information as possible and decide what is important to you. And finally, as for my personal opinion (if you are still even reading lol)...If I am presented with two products with exactly the same ingredient list, and one is organic while the other one isn't, I will probably choose the organic. Not because I think the organic versions of the ingredients are going to work better, but because I want to support a brand that is environmentally conscious. 

New Beauty x L'OCCITANE

Excited to share a video featuring some tips on how to layer your products for the best results! 

The way you layer your skin care products can have a major impact on how well they actually work. We've got celebrity aesthetician Jordana Mattioli here to share her best kept secrets on how to layer skin care products like a pro. 
 

THE 101 : Botox

For me, Botox is as commonplace as toothpaste, but from some, the idea of freezing your muscles is still terrifying! Here's what you need to know.

What exactly is it and how does it work? Botox is a brand from the pharmaceutical company, Allergan. Its botulinum toxin (a purified version of the bacteria that causes botulism) that prohibits nerves from delivering their signal to muscles, typically in your face. Its also referred to as a 'neurotoxin'.  It blocks the ability of the nerve ending to secrete acetylcholine, which the muscle needs in order to contract.  By blocking these nerve endings, the muscles in your face  stay in a relaxed position so you stop scrunching, and when you stop scrunching, the wrinkle disappears. It can be used preventatively if you do happen to have really strong muscle movement; Botox essentially freezes the muscle, so leaving you unable to make a scrunching wrinkle-causing expression, any wrinkles from these muscles will take longer to develop. 

How long has it been around, and how we do we know its safe? Scientists have been playing around with this stuff for over a hundred years! In 1989, it got approval to treat eyelid spasms. Throughout the nineties, it was used to treat bladder spasms, writer's cramp, excessive sweating, even cerebral palsy in kids. Finally, in 2002, Botox got approved by the FDA to treat wrinkles, and continues to get FDA approvals for other uses. 

Where in your face do you get it and does it hurt?  Though Botox can be used many places, the most common areas are crow's feet around the eyes, frown lines between the eyebrows, and furrows on the forehead. Some doctors can make lines on the neck smooth out also! If you have excessing sweating, Botox can also get injected into the glands under the arms. Getting needles in your armpits totally hurts for a minute but is really nice to sweat less during those really hot months. Injections on the face are much easier, you feel each pinch, but as soon as its done, there is zero pain. There can be a bit of bruising, but its rare, and staying off anything that can thin your blood for 48 hours prior can help minimize bruising. 

How long does it last? Botox typically wears off in three to four months. If you're using it under your arms, it can actually last up to nine months.When it does wear off, everything will go back to normal but it won't happen overnight.  

What are the side effects? Any drug can have side effects. The most common issues are headaches and bruises, poking needles in your face will usually do that..

Are there any alternatives?  Nothing can relax the muscle like Botox, but certain skin care treatments can improve the look of wrinkles. High doses of vitamin A applied topically (like retinoids) are the most studied topical skin care ingredient to improve wrinkles. Treatments like micro-current devices done in a facial, or home care gadgets can improve these types of lines, but need to be done consistently to keep the results looking good.

What age should I start getting Botox? These type of procedures aren't for everyone, and thats ok! If you are interested in anti-aging procedures, and want to stay ahead of pre-mature aging, Botox can be a really great, inexpensive treatment for you. There is no right or wrong age, Botox isn't an age thing, its a muscle thing. I have seen teenage girls with deep forehead wrinkles, that doesn't mean they should be doing it, but just to give an idea that there isn't a particular age when wrinkles appear due to strong muscles. On the flip side, I've seen women in their fifties and sixties with super smooth foreheads, who may never need Botox. Again, its all about how much muscle movement you have. Personally, my forehead has been getting Botox since I was about 25, and can actually go longer now in between treatments instead of exactly every 4 months.

The nurse at my dentist offers Botox, can I do it with them?  I wouldn't. I saw a sign in my gyno's office that they now offered Botox. I get it, everyone wants a piece of the pie. Over 6 million Botox procedures were performed in 2014 and surely reports of next year will be even higher. Your dentist and gyno both get extensive medical training, but there are specialities within medicine for a reason. So even though a nurse can administer this, but they don't have anywhere near the training a doctor has. See a board certified (very important!) dermatologist or plastic surgeon.