THE 101: Adult Acne

I contributed some information to Glamour Magazine for an article they were writing on adult acne. There is so much great information in this story,  I wanted to repost it in full.

 

The Totally and Completely Unfair Reasons You're Still Breaking Out in Your 20s and 30s
By Katheryn Erickson

There are a lot of things I don't miss about being a teenager: My chemistry teacher's sarcasm, basketball practice, the challenge of sitting in a school hallway in extra-low-cut Frankie B. jeans (it was 2004, but what was I thinking!?), curfews. There’s another thing, however, that I'd like to add to that list—that’s somehow lingered with me well into adulthood (I'm 28). And that's acne.

Here’s the thing: I honestly feel like I don’t have an excuse for breakouts. I’ve been working as a beauty editor since I graduated college, and with this job I have access to the best skin care pros in the world. I get regular peels. I do light laser treatments. I’ve been prescribed multiple rounds of antibiotics. I take Spironolactone, a mild blood pressure medication that’s prescribed off-label for acne, as it suppresses androgens. But—aside from the seven blissful years when I took a combined oral contraceptive pill that gave me The Clearest Skin Ever—I’ve always broken out. (The pill also gave me a blood clot, so relying on it for my skin is no longer an option. Cool!)As a result, I’m always in some way working to prevent a fiasco with my at-home skin care routine. I exfoliate every night with Lancer The Method: Polish Blemish Control, $75, which has purifying tea tree oil, before cleansing; I use Skinceuticals Phyto Corrective Gel, $64 to control breakout-related inflammation; and I alternate between Tammy Fender Purifying Lucent Masque, $215, and Eminence Hungarian Herbal Mud Treatment, $46, once a week to keep my pores clear. I even do this thing where I wash my face after shampooing and conditioning my hair because I’m paranoid the fragrance and ingredients like silicones in hair products is yet another trigger. All of it combined keeps my breakouts mostly under control, but I still deal with more pimples than I’m cool with—on my cheeks, chin, back (as I write this story I have a cute one on my cheek). It’s getting old.

And it turns out, I’m not alone. Adult acne (the kind that occurs in women 25 and above) haunts many of my closest friends—and, to varying degrees, effs up their lives. “I’m the perfect candidate for your story,” my friend Laura joked when I mentioned I was working on a piece about adult acne. She’s taken Accutane twice, and still relies on Spironolactone, like me, to minimize breakouts. “I was getting cystic acne—it wasn’t all over my face but I’d have two or three large cysts at a time. I will never forget when I met my husband’s family and I had two huge zits on my chin and cheek; I was so embarrassed,” she told me on the phone. “I had already been on Accutane once at that point. I was 35 or 36 at the time and I was like, ‘Why am I 35 and still getting acne?’ I assumed that I should have normal clear skin; I wanted that. But even after the second round of Accutane, I still got occasional cysts—they’re just embarrassing and huge—so I started taking Spironolactone. It helps a lot.”

Then there’s my friend Sarah, who is dealing with acne for the first time in her life. “I’m beside myself,” she told me in an email. “I NEVER broke out as a teenager, but now that I’m an adult and experience real stress, I do. I feel like I’m too old to have zits and I get really embarrassed. I’ve definitely canceled plans because of a breakout.” Same, girl.

My college roommate Eve, on the other hand, has more or less accepted zits as a part of life. “As a teenager they made me a bit depressed, but I’m less self-conscious about my skin now,” she explained. “I like to focus on the overall condition of my skin. But it does take longer to get ready if I have to cover pimples up!” Whether you’re cool with your acne or not, spending extra time covering up your zits is yet another thing we don’t need in our lives.

So why are we still breaking out? Truth is, the answer isn't completely clear. "Unfortunately, we don't totally understand the difference in the cause of acne in teens versus adults," New York City-based dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner says. "The main causes of acne are skin oil, acne-causing bacteria on the skin, sticky skin cells blocking your pores, and inflammation. Hormonal fluctuations, stress, and diet all likely play a roll as well.” One potential difference: “Where you’re a teenager your hormones are naturally fluctuating and you can’t control it,” Jordana Mattioli, a medical esthetician in NYC says. “But when you’re an adult your hormones are fluctuating because of things like inflammation and stress.” (More on that later).

The good news: We’re constantly discovering new ways to treat acne. There’s a lot of research underway about how the microbiome—the massive colony of bacteria and organisms that live on our skin (gross, I know, but also kind of cool)—might affect skin conditions like acne and rosacea. Differin is launching the first ever over-the-counter topical retinoid in January. And we’ve come a long way from the old school method of dehydrating your face and using only “oil free” in an effort to keep skin smooth. Below, Zeichner and Mattioli share their top tips on the best, most up-to-date approaches to dealing with acne as a grown-up. Read them, try them, and know this: You’re not alone!

First, cut the heavy creams
Indulging in over-the-top skin care is something I’m personally guilty of. I mean, is there anything better than slathering your skin in a rich, yummy cream right before bed and binging on Netflix? Good skin care makes up for lack of sleep, right? “Once women hit 21, they automatically start buying anti-aging products,” Mattioli explains. “But most are too rich for their skin type. They’re designed for mature skin that doesn’t produce as much oil as it used to.” Whoops!

Spot treat with your products
Heard of multimasking? You can do the same thing with your skin care products, Mattioli says. In other words, if your skin isn’t dry on your forehead, go ahead and skimp a little on moisturizer there. “I’ve been dealing with acne my entire life and if I don’t keep it under control I will be a breakout mess,” she says. “I only moisturize where I need it.”

Err on the side of gentle
Layering a 10% benzoyl peroxide acne treatment all over your face may seem like a great idea and you may actually wake up with clear(er) skin. But you’ll likely also be incredibly inflamed. “More is not always better, especially with acne,” Zeichner says. “Higher concentrations of ingredients like benzoyl peroxide have been shown in studies to be no better, but certainly more irritating, than lower concentrations.”

Pick the right spot treatment
Consider what type of acne you have: Do you have scary red bumps? If so, it’s likely bacteria causing the inflammation and you’ll need something that combats it, Mattioli says. “Benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation,” Zeichner explains (try Clinique Acne Solutions Emergency Gel-Lotion, $17.50). If you have blackheads and whiteheads, on the other hand, you’ll want something with salicylic acid (which comes in 1-2% formulations). “It helps remove excess oil and exfoliates dead cells from the skin’s surface,” Zeichner says.

Do light therapy
It used to be that you needed an appointment for an LED light treatment—or you could try the smaller at-home lights that take 45 minutes to treat your face. Neutrogena’s Light Therapy Mask, $40 uses a mixture of red and blue LED lights and takes just ten minutes. “Red light has been shown to be anti-inflammatory while blue light kills acne-causing bacteria,” Zeichner explains. Bonus: It makes for a hilarious selfie.

Simplify, simplify, simplify
Mae West may have said “Too much of a good thing can be wonderful,” but that philosophy shouldn’t apply to your acne treatment game plan. “Applying too many products and washing your face too often causes more harm than good,” Zeichner says.

Check your diet
“Dietary factors like high glycemic index foods have been shows to aggravate acne in predisposed people,” Zeichner says. “The increased sugar load promotes inflammation that in turn leads to breakouts.” Mattioli recommends cutting back on processed sugary foods in favor of anti-inflammatory options like wild fish, nuts, and fresh fruits and sticking with organic, hormone-free meat and dairy.

Try yoga
Seriously. Most of my friends listed stress high on the list as the cause of their breakouts, and it’s true: crazy amounts of stress do indeed affect your hormones. “Stress causes hormonal fluctuation that increases oil production and leads to acne breakouts,” Zeichner says. “Anything you can do to minimize stress—yoga, meditation—can help.”

Don’t pick
As tempting as it is to try to be your own esthetician in your bathroom, you must fight every single urge to squeeze. “Acne in adult women tends to be angry, underground pimples.” Zeichner says. “They are inflamed and cannot be easily opened by picking. It leads to more harm than good, a disrupted skin barrier, inflammation, and potential scarring.”

If all else fails, see a derm
If you’ve tried everything and you’re still breaking out, get thee to a dermatologist. Zeichner’s go-to solutions for adult acne in women: Aczone, an anti-inflammatory gel that “clears pimples while causing almost zero irritation” and Spironolactone (my personal favorite).

 

 

Column w/GARDENCOLLAGE

I am so excited to share that I'll be doing a column with one of my favorite online sites, Garden Collage! Each month or so will be an informative skincare story along with how to's, tips, and product recommendations; focusing on eco-friendly and clean beauty. 

You can read my first post here!

Garden Collage curates stories about the aesthetic value of gardens, plant-based beauty products, environmental policy, the farm to table movement, DIY gardening tips, travel journals, and other fresh takes on the value of gardening in our modern world. Their mission is to bring back the garden into peoples’ lives and inspire readers to incorporate a new, dynamic concept of “gardening” based on perspectives from a global community of gardeners. From the farm to the fire escape, they cover it all. Prepare to be INSPIRED.

REVIEW: Shamanuti

(image from shamanuti.com)

Shamanuti is a brand from Massachusetts with a focus on organic plant-based ingredients. The prices are affordable and they have sample kits available for you to purchase before investing in full sizes- something I wish all companies would offer! You can check those out here. From the items I tried, these are my favorites from the collection..

 

Seaweed Toner  4 OZ  $28 USD                             

Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe) Leaf Juice, Ascophyllum nodosum (Organic Kelp) Extract, Aphanizomenon Flos Aquae (Organic Blue Green Algae) Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Glucolactone, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), Salix nigra (Black Willowbark) Extract, Sodium Chloride (Dead Sea Salt), Polysorbate, Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Essential Oil, Citric Acid

Face mists, toners, and basically any liquid product I can spritz on my face are my favorite category of skincare products, so I had to try this out first. You can use this on any part of the body, but your face (no matter what skin type you have) will love it. Organic aloe is the first ingredient which is soothing and refreshing, followed by organic kelp and algaes which act as water binders and antioxidants. Other highlights are the hyaluronic acid, an effective hydrator and black willowbark which is an anti-bacterial. This has a subtle sweet scent that evaporates quickly. 

 

Organic Face Oil   .5 OZ  $34 USD

Oenotherera Biennis(Evening Primrose) Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry seed) oil, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus carota (Carrot) Oil

This face oil is only six ingredients, but they are all superstars! Inside the glass amber dropper, is primrose which is skin-soothing and hydrating, followed by cranberry seed oil- which has potent antioxidant abilities because it is a rich source of polyphenols. Jojoba is a skin soother, with skin restoring properties, and the meadowfoam oil is superbly hydrating. Finishing up is the major antioxidant vitamin E and nourishing carrot oil. The smell is reminiscent of opening a bottle of new vitamins, but nothing offensive, and goes away within a minute. This oil blend soaks in quickly and is beneficial for even the most sensitive skin & around the delicate eye area. I'd use whatever is left on my fingertips to massage into my cuticles, double duty!

 

The essential serum   O.5 oZ  $42 USD

Rosa damascena (Rose) Distillate, Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe Vera) Juice, Propylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), Emulsifying Wax, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam Seed) Oil, Vaccinium myrtillus (Organic Bilberry) Extract, Saccharum officinarum (Organic Sugar Cane) Extract, Acer saccharinum (Organic Sugar Maple) Extract, Citrus auranium dulcis (Organic Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus medica limonum (Organic Lemon) Extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon (Organic Cranberry) Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium Benzoate, Glucolactone, CoQ10 (Coenzyme Q10), Beta Carotene (Pro Vitamin A), Retinol Palmitate (Vitamin A), Alpha Lipoic Acid DL- Thioctic Acid, dl-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Daucus carota (Carrot) Oil, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide Gum), Citric Acid

Housed in an amber glass bottle with a dropper applicator, this serum has a faint herb smell that fades quickly. The base is a rose distillate, aloe, and vegetable glycerin. (Note: Rosa Damascena could potentially  be irritating in an oil form, however this is a distillate so I consider it safe and beneficial when used in this small amount.)  Next we have DMAE for skin firming, Meadowfoam Seed Oil for skin conditioning, and Bilberry as an antioxidant. Sugar cane and sugar maple are supposed to be a gentler alternative to alpha hydroxy acids, however I couldn't find much data to support that claim- they are however wonderful humectants. Orange, lemon and cranberry extracts are next; orange and lemon aren't my favorite ingredients due to the potential risk of irritation and senstitivty to the sun, even though the amount used is small - I would still sample this before investing in a larger size to make sure your skin likes it. The rest of the ingredient list reads great: glucolactone (improves cell turnover), coQ10 and alpha lipoic acid (anti aging antioxidants), Vitamin A (has dozens of benefits) and niacinamide (brightening). Due to the vitamin A and citrus extracts, I would use this at night only. The texture is very light, soaks in quickly but skin is left feeling nourished. Very dry skin may like a face oil or cream on top of this. 

 

CREME NO 5   2 OZ  $38 USD

Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Hibiscus Flower Extract, Coconut Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Whole Elder Flower, White lily Emulsifying Wax, Lecithin, Sea Kelp, Palm Stearic Acid, Vegetable glycerin, Vitamin E, Vitamin B3, Pro Vitamin A, Vitamin C Ester, Pro-Vitamin B5, Xanthan Gum, Rosemary Extract, Amino Acids, Neem Oil

This milky lotion liquid hybrid comes in an amber glass bottle with a pump, and has a delicate floral scent. It is in a base of soothing aloe and nourishing coconut oil. Hibiscus, rose hip, and elder flower are antioxidants that also work to support capillary strength, calm and condition the skin. A great mix of essential vitamins and amino acids round out this formula to make it an excellent option for normal to dry skin.              

 

CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER EYE GEL  1 oz, $24 USD                                                                                                                  

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Witch Hazel, Gluconolacctone, Cranberry Seed Oil, Cucumber Distillate, Chamomile Distillate, Carbomer, Triethanoloamine, Sodium Benzoate

This eye gel comes in a dark green opaque plastic bottle with a pump applicator. The base is a soothing aloe and glycerin. Next up is the witch hazel, its an astringent antioxidant but can be sensitizing when used regularly, so I'd save this to use just a few times a week instead of daily. Cranberry seed oil is  a rich source of polyphenols with as skin-restoring benefits and chamomile and cucumber are excellent anti-inflammatories. Try keeping this in the fridge for even more depuffing action, or even as a cooling eye mask. 

 

                                                                                                                  

ORGANIC MIST  4 oZ  $28 USD

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Organic Aloe Extract of Mentha Piperita [Organic Peppermint] Leaf, Organic Glycerin, Organic Alcohol Extracts of Safix Aloe [Organic White Willow] Bark (and) Vaccinium Myrtillus [Organic Bilberry] Fruit (and) Saccharum Officinarum [Organic Sugar Cane] (and) Acer Saccarinum [Organic Sugar Maple] Granules (and) Citrus Aurantium Dulcis

Another mist, but this one I would keep for body only, as this contains a high amount of peppermint which could irritate the face/eyes. I loved this as a body and foot spray, especially after a hot day, it was refreshing and cooling. This is in an organic aloe base, with added skin soothers and antioxidants. 

 

Head to toe spray lotion  6 OZ  $34 USD

Aloe Barbadensis [Organic Aloe] Leaf Juice, Coconut Oil, Rooibos Tea Extract, Emulsifying Wax, Vegetable Glycerin, Palm Stearic Acid, Jojoba Oil, Neroli Hydrosol, Olive Oil, Vitamin E, DMAE, MSM, Xantham Gum, Willow Bark Extract, Rosemary Extract, Neem Oil

A body lotion in a spray bottle, very neat! This is packaged in a hard plastic bottle with a spray top. The scent is a subtle orangey floral, most likely from the Neroli Hydrosol, which does linger a little. The texture is perfect, not oily, but not overly creamy or sticky, this is a true lotion texture. The ingredients tend to separate but a quick shake blends it all back together. Following the base of refreshing and soothing aloe and coconut oil, is the rooibos tea extract (a calming antioxidant) and some more plant based hydrators. This is fun to use and smells lovely. 

REVIEW: Oskia

A client of mine was raving about an eye cream she bought at Selfridges in London, which was my first introduction to cult favorite, Oskia Skincare. It's not sold here in the US (yet!) but it is available at some of the best beauty stores and spas across the UK, as well on the Oskia website where they will ship worldwide. The line is based around the skincare benefits of MSM (methyl sulfonyl methane) a natural form of organic sulphur, which you've probably seen in supplements at your health food store. This ingredient (along with many other superstar ingredients) are found in most of Oskia's products, along with an MSM oral supplement. 

You can read all about the benefits of MSM here. And take a look at some researched studies here,  here and here. I didn't try every product in the line, but instead got a selection of the best sellers. These are really impressive, active products that I hope make their way into the states soon- but in the meantime they are absolutely worth the international shipping costs due to the unique formulas.

 

RENAISSANCE CLEANSING GEL                                                                                       SIZE 100ML, PRICE £29.50 or $39.33 USD


Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aqua, Cetearyl Olivate, Sucrose Laurate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sucrose Palmitate, Parfum (Natural), Geraniol*, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Citronellol**, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lactobacillus/Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Ferment Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sucrose Stearate, Linalool**, Retinyl Palmitate, CI77491 (natural iron oxide), Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate. **Component of natural essential oils

This is a unique product, its a pink, rich gel that turns into an oil, then turns milky once you get water mixed with it. It does have a soothing subtle chamomile & rose scent. However, if you don't like oil cleansers, you probably won't like this- it leaves the skin clean but doesn't give that 'tight' feeling after using foamy or water soluble gel cleansers. I'm not going to dive into the ingredients because cleansers aren't left on the skin very long to have a huge impact except for cleansing the skin, but its suitable for all skin types, and this will absolutely dissolve makeup. 

 

 


RENAISSANCE 360 (brightening lotion)
SIZE40ML, PRICE £65.00 (or $86 USD)


Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Zinc Oxide, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Myristyl Myristate, Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Galactoarabinan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Arbutin, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glutathione, Phytic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Silica, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Alcohol, Parfum (Natural Fragrance), Lecithin, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool PAO = 9M

This is packaged in an airless pump (awesome!) and the texture is light, but nourishing, and has a very subtle earthy floral scent that goes away within a minute. This does have an spf 8 from the zinc oxide, so I would apply separate spf if you are going to be out and about. Great for all skin types that are looking for a brightening lightweight lotion. Among the first few ingredients are some great plant based antioxidant oils followed by: 

  • MSM reduces inflammation, and increases the production of pheomelanin, to reduce pigmentation, also acts as an anti-inflammatory and calms breakouts.
  • HYALURONIC ACID hydrates, plumps and softens
  • GALACTORABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
  • LUPIN SEED (Collangeneer) boosts Collagen I synthesis and the formation and quality of the collagen matrix
  • NANO BRIGHT Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
  • ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES, rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4% for an even skin tone and reduced hyper-pigmentation. (OSKIA uses 2%)
  • ENCAPSULATED MULTI-VITAMINS: A, C, E, and F
  • ENCAPSULATED 6% VITAMIN C powerful anti-oxidant properties and boosts collagen
  • OPUNTIA CACTUS EXTRACT calms irritated skin

 

 

RENAISSANCE BRIGHTLIGHT (brightening serum)
SIZE30ML, PRICE £85.00 or $113 USD  

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C Phosphate), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Zinc Glycinate, Arbutin, Glutathione, Lepidium Sativum (Cress) Sprout Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Rhodinols (Natural Rhodinol), Inulin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Cymbopogon Martini (Organic Palmarosa) Oil, Anthemis Nobilis (Organic Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena (Organic Rose) Flower Oil, Linolenic/Linoleic Acid, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum (Ho) Wood Oil, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Pelargonium Graveolens (Organic Bourbon Geranium) Oil, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Juniperus Mexicana (Cedar) Wood Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Organic Clove) Bud Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Bisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Alcohol denat., Phenoxyethanol*, Citronellol**, Geraniol**, Linalool**, Eugenol**, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)

This orange colored serum comes in a glass bottle with a dropper applicator, with a scent that is lighter but similar to the Renaissance 360 product mentioned above. It dries quickly with no stickiness. This is a serum targeted for brightening, and it does contain a small amount of some essential oils, so SPF layered on top is mandatory! The second ingredient is a 6% phosphate form of vitamin c, followed by: 

  • NANOBRIGHT:Oskia's own encapsulated liposome includes Glutathione (key antioxidant and tripeptide), natural Arbutin (from Bearberry leaf) both of which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase (which stimulates melanin production within the melanocytes); and antioxidants Vitamins C & E. 0.4% of Nanobright inhibits melanin formation by 74%. (Oskia uses 5%)
  • ENCAPSULATED SWISS GARDEN CRESS LIPOSOMES rich in Sulforaphane, inhibit the hormone a-MSH to reduce melanin production by 44% using 0.4%. (Oskia uses 2%)
  • MSM boosts the power of Glutathione and increases the production of pheomelanin, the type of melanin that is found in fair-skinned people, relative to eumelanin, the darker type of melanin.
  • 5% NIACINAMIDE (Vitamin B3) reduces post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, and increasing over-all skin lightening
  • ZINC GLYCINATE stimulates the formation of an antioxidant protein to bind Copper and inhibit the production of melanin and reduces Tyrosinase.
  • PASSIONFRUIT & GRAPE AHAS with PUMPKIN & PAPAYA ENZYMES gently exfoliate
  • FERMENTED MINERAL POLYPEPTIDE MIX Oskia's own fermented mineral complex delivers Magnesium, Iron, Zinc and Silicon in bio-available form for a full skin cell health boost.
  • PREBIOTICS help to protect the skin’s natural flora for optimum skin health by preventing the colonization of harmful bacteria.

 


EYE WONDER 
SIZE10ML, PRICE £48.00 or $64 USD

Ingredients: Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Whey Protein, Zinc Glycine, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Limonium Narbonense Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate Lysate, Galactoarabinan, Panthenol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Lactic Acid. 

This active eye serum is lightweight and soaks in fast. It uses a base of Rosa Damascena Flower Water but i didnt notice any scent, and there is no added fragrance. Dry skin types may need a lotion or cream on top of this for more moisture when applying makeup , but I found my concealer worked fine on top of it. 

  • VITAMIN B3 (Niacinamide) reduces water loss, boosts fatty acid and ceramides, stimulates new fibroblasts, inhibits pigmentation
  • VITAMIN E anti-oxidant 
  • VITAMIN P strengthens the capillary walls to help reduce the appearance of dark circles. 
  • MSM the most bio available form of sulphur, aids collagen production.
  • ARNICA AND LAMINARIA COMPLEX rich in decongestive Vitamin P strengthens capillary walls to reduce puffiness and dark circles
  • MILK PEPTIDES stimulating collagen synthesis, increasing Hyaluronic Acid production, increasing cell-to-cell communication
  • GALACTOARABINAN acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss
  • O3 STRESSED YEAST LYSATE helpS reduce UV induced damage
  • ZINC GLYCINE COMPLEX helps reduce UV induced pigmentation.
  • SWISS APPLE STEM CELLS are touted to prolong the life of healthy skin cells and protect DNA. there hasn't been a ton of research in this area, so even though this is in here, I'm counting on the other proven ingredients to work
  • HYALURONIC ACID & BIOSACCHARIDES for hydration