Lip Service

My earliest memory of makeup is buying a little tube of Cherry Chapstick. Girls at school weren't wearing makeup yet, so this was the next best thing. Soon after there was the discovery of Bonne Belle Lip Smackers. I had to collect every..single..flavor. They were so inexpensive that my mother gave in and my stash grew so much that my little friends would always ask if we could play with them when they came by. Gross! Anyway, twenty-something years later, and I am still hoarding lip products. Fortunately, nowadays there are much better formulas then those 99 cent waxy scented sticks..

There are more do's then don'ts when deciding on a really good lip moisturizer. Lips don't have the same oil glands like we have on the rest of our skin, which is why they are really susceptible to dryness. The only ingredients you want to avoid are alcohols, menthols, camphor, phenol, and anything in the spicy essential oil family (think peppermint, cinnamon, etc) Bottom line: avoid lip plumping products. That sting you feel when you apply is irritating, which leads to inflammation/swelling, and that is why you get the temporary plumped look. Excessive dryness and collagen breakdown just isn't worth the trade off! 

BEST BETS

Rosebud Salve Full of surgical grade petrolatum and cotton seed oil, this is truly a all purpose salve, and now finally comes in a squeeze tube.

Lucas Paw Paw When a product is over 100 years old and still talked about, its worth a look. My aussie pals turned me onto this multi purpose ointment which has fermented papaya. 

Fresh Lip Treatment A perfect blend of oils with some formulas having a hint of color, perfection!

Rodin Lip Balm Enriched with shea butter and totally sheer, this comes in an adorable ring or a square little compact. 

FIX IT: Puffy Eyes

Besides that deliciously salty meal from Momofuku last night, theres tons of other attributes to why puffy eyes happen. A night of cocktails, fatigue, a good cry, seasonal allergies; basically you name it and it probably can cause fluid to build up under there. Great news: Theres some great quick fixes for your occasional puffiness! And then theres us unlucky few, where chronic puffy eyes is a constant issue. This is most likely due to genetics and the positioning of fat pads under the eye. The quick fixes below can help temporarily, but medical intervention is more of a long term solution for constant puffy eyes.

THE QUICK FIXES

Anything Cold! Stick a set of spoons in the fridge for a few minutes, and hold the smooth part under your eyes. Even better, use them to massage in eye cream. While your at it, keep your eye cream in the fridge too.

Brew some caffeinated green tea, or chamomile tea, then put the teabags in the fridge for a few minutes. Once they are cold, plop them on your eyes for a few minutes. 

Try an eye mask designed for staying cold that you can always have handy. Ten minutes or less should do it. I like Therapearl's eye mask.

Cucumber slices, that old cliche, can work too. They are mostly water, but they have a natural anti-inflammatory soothing effect too. Keep them chilly before putting them on.

Diet: Salt (sodium/ processed foods) and alcohol cause water retention. Try lowering your intake of those that and see what happens. Drink plenty of water and try more anti-inflammatory foods. 

Sleep: Yes, you should be getting lots of it, but also keeping your head a little more elevated as opposed to sleeping flat will help fluid retention. 

Antihistamines: If you struggle with seasonal allergies, this can make a huge difference. Talk to your doctor or allergist about taking an antihistamine, or using special eye drops.

THE LONG TERM

Surgery: There is no right or wrong age to start thinking about cosmetic surgery, and I have seen them performed as early as mid-thirties. Having worked in a plastic surgery practice, the most common thread among patients is "I wish I would have done this sooner". The thought of surgery might sound absurd to some people, and thats ok! Its not for everyone. If you do want to research this route, you'll find its more affordable then you think (as far as surgical procedures go), an easy recovery, and your looking great in a few days. 

Injectable Fillers: For a less invasive approach, theres injectable treatments that can get strategically placed to help minimize chronic puffy eyes. Fillers like Juvederm or Restylane are clear, mushy substances made from hyaluronic acid  which we have in our own bodies. The injections are painless (your doc will put on a little numbing cream so you won't feel a thing), and even though you can get a little bruised for a few days, this type of treatment can last almost a year, sometimes longer. I've personally had this done numerous times with excellent results. This type of procedure can cost between $500 and $1200 depending on how much actual filler is used. Also to note, if you aren't thrilled with the results, you can have another injection to dissolve it. 

THE 101: Exfoliation

Would you like to smooth out bumpy skin? Lessen clogged pores? Have a constant enviable glow? Then you should be exfoliating! Getting rid of the excess built up dead skin and improving those cells to turn over is key for almost all skin types. There's a few easy ways to do this, and a some products that that fit the bill. Let's go over the basics..

There are two common types of exfoliation. The first one is referred to as manual  (scrubs, clarisonic, microdermabrasion, washcloth) The second type is referred to as chemical exfoliation (enzymes, or alpha&beta hydroxy acids in the form of a peel that is rinsed or a leave-on product) and instead of scrubbing, the chemical does all the work. Ideally you should be doing one of each. Alternating them will give you the best results. Scrubs can be used once or twice a week, where chemical exfoliators can be used almost every night. 

If you have normal to dry skin, try a serum, cream or lotion containing an alpha-hydroxy acid, these work by dissolving the substance that holds skin cells together. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you'll get better results with a product containing beta hydroxy acid (aka salicylic acid) because they can penetrate oil and get inside your pore. An effective formula must be the right pH, and should contain a blend of other skin beneficial ingredients like antioxidants and anti-irritants. 

Manual Exfoliants for all skin types  

At the drugstore, you can find Aveeno Positively Radiant Skin Brightening Daily Scrub or Olay Regenerist Detoxifying Scrub. Both are gentle and don't contain any weirdly shaped and harsh nut shells or particles. If you live near a target store, you can find another well formulated option from Boots called Expert Sensitive Gentle Smoothing Scrub. If you want to splurge, my luxury picks are Remede's Sweep or Kiehl's Epidermal Re-Texturizing MicroDermabrasion. Another option is to use a soft washcloth with your regular cleanser. I really love these soft muslin cloths from Liz Earle. You get a two pack for $6. Last but not least is the trusty Clarisonic, the sensitive skin brush heads are effective but gentle enough for the most sensitive skin.

Chemical Exfoliants for normal to dry skin

Hands down my favorite drugstore find is Olay's Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir. It has a nice blend of glycolic acid and antioxidants in a lightweight serum texture. If you have really dry skin, you will may need a moisturizer over this. Another excellent option is Peter Thomas Roth's Glycolic Acid Moisturizer. This contains glycolic acid too, but is also time-released, which makes it perfect for anyone, but especially great for sensitive skin. 

Chemical Exfoliants for oily or acne prone skin

I'm sure if you have oily skin, or have ever had a pimple, you've heard of salicylic acid. Unfortunately there are not many well-formulated products out there! To be effective, the salicylic acid must be the correct pH, and contain the right amount of actual acid. My go-to is by philosophy, called clear days ahead oil-free salicylic acid acne treatment & moisturizer, it has a nice silky texture and its fragrance free. Another great product and even gentler option is Clinique's Mild Clarifying Lotion. Its a liquid (I don't know why they call it a lotion) and just apply with a cotton ball after washing, it also contains aloe for major soothing to your skin. 

Faux Glow

It's mid-summer here in NYC, and while that means ice cream festivals (yes, this is a real thing) and more outdoor brunches, it also means shorter hemlines and sleeveless everything. Unless you are Dita Von Teese, some of us just look a little better with a sun-kissed glow. We know to stay away from tanning beds and to wear SPF, but there must be a way to meet in the middle... Enter self tanning!

PREP: 

• Take a CSI style shower a few hours before hand; shave, exfoliate really well with either a non-oil based scrub or washcloth/loofah.

• Dab moisturizer on knees and elbows so self tanner doesn't make those areas too dark.

• Throw a dark sheet on your bed the first night you apply it, or sleep in dark PJ's.

APPLICATION TIPS: 

• If your tanner comes with a little applicator mitt, use it! Or try a tanner applicator glove. 

• Dry for at least 10 minutes, longer if possible, before getting dressed or going to bed.

• For hard to reach areas, if you don't have a friend or hubby to help with your back, my Macguyver trick is to put the tanning mitt over my body brush. to get my back. Voila!

• Don't rub too much, gentle smoothing is all you need, let the tanner do the work.

• Try sanitizing wipes or hand sanitizer to clean the bottoms of your hands and between your fingers and toes.

• For self tanning novices: watch a video! https://www.sttropeztan.com/application-videos

TO FIX MISTAKES:

• If you didn't use a glove, and didn't wash your hands fast enough, try exfoliating the area with a scrub a few times. There are also fake tan removers or you can try rubbing half a lemon on the area. 

MAKE IT LAST:

• Moisturize! The drier your skin, the faster and more uneven your tan will fade. As long as you moisturize right after a shower, your tan will last and fade evenly.

I'm always trying new tanners, but there's a few staples that have made it onto my holy grail list:

VITA LIBERATA TAN MOUSSE  its a foam, dries in a minute, and no lingering smell. Try it a few nights in a row for color that lasts a long time. I'm talking weeks. Plus its kim k's fave, and her tan always looks perfect.

ST. TROPEZ Anything this company does is goddess level bronze. There are sprays, mouses, lotions, even a new dry oil formula. 

JAMES READ SLEEP MASK TAN This actually smells really good, but there is no telltale tanner smell; and its loaded with great ingredients for your skin too! 

BARE MINERALS FAUX TAN FACE Another 'faces only' tanner. Amazing ingredients, and natural looking. 

THE 101: Laser Hair Removal

How does it work?

The short version: a concentrated light energy from the laser gets absorbed by the pigment in the hair, which damages the follicle. Doing this multiple times will result in damage to the follicle, and in turn slowing down hair growth, thinning out the hair, and eventually prohibiting growth.

Does it hurt?

Absolutely, but in all the years I've been performing this treatment, not one patient has ever not been able to finish a session. It feels like a light rubber band snap, a little easier then getting a wax. Some areas hurt more then others, but it's such a quick process, and it's totally worth it. Taking an advil 20 minutes before can help with this.

Is it for me?

This depends. The best candidates have light skin and dark hair, laser works quickest on this combination, but darker skin can be treated too. Unfortunately there are no lasers (yet!) to treat red hair, blonde hair, and grey hair. If you have very sensitive skin, or a history of hyperpigmentation, you can ask for a "patch test".

What areas can I laser?

Anywhere! Bikini area and underarms are the most popular areas to treat, as the hair tends to be thickest in those spots and responds really well. I've lasered everything from patients ears to butt cracks.

How many treatments will I need?

Results vary from person to person. I tell patients they are going to need at least six treatments. However you will see results after just two treatments. After those first few initial treatments, your hair will be lighter, and sparser. Treatments are done every 4 to 6 weeks to make sure we get hairs in their growth cycle. 

How much does it cost?

Most offices will charge by the area being treated. One bikini session can run between $250 to $400 per session. Larger areas like full legs can be between $800 to $1200 per session. Packages to save some money are almost always available. While I'm all for getting a great deal, do your research on local options. The most reliable option is to visit your dermatologist or medical doctors office, or a medspa as long as there is a doctor on site. 

Is there anything I have to do before?

Yes, but its easy! Shave the day before your treatment. The hair follicle has to be intact, so no waxing or plucking for weeks before a treatment, but shaving is always ok. Also, you can't have a real or even fake tan before the procedure, or you can run the risk of skin discoloration. 

What can I expect after?

Your skin will be a little pink, blotchy, and sometimes a little bumpy. This is normal and goes away in a few hours but could last up to two days. After about a week, the hair dislodges from the follicle and you will be hair free for one to two months. When it starts to grow back, just shave until your next treatment session. 

Will it last forever?

The results can be permanent, but there is no way to get every hair. After about six sessions, you can expect about 75-80% of the hair to be gone forever. Any hair that is left will be really thin, sparse and very manageable. There can be possible re-growth from pregnancy or certain types of hormone related issues.