THE 101: Face Oils

Every few years theres a new beauty phenomenon. You'll start reading about a coveted luxury version in magazines, see it mentioned multiple times on a popular blog, and finally a inexpensive option is on your drugstore shelves. Usually these trends are just a newly packaged version of a product that already exists (as in your BB cream is really just a glorified tinted moisturizer) and facial oils are no different. Most facial oil ingredients have been around for decades in your favorite serums and moisturizers, but now they are available as a stand alone oil based product.

THE SCIENCE 

Oils can pass through the lipid layer of skin, so they can be better at preventing moisture loss then a cream. While many oils are packed with antioxidants to create a protective layer over the skin, some do contain fragrant oils (citrus, jasmine, lavender, etc) which you want to avoid on the face because they can have potential to irritate skin and be phototoxic to skin when exposed to sunlight (as in cause discoloration).

THE BOTTOM LINE

These are not a must have skin care staple. Try a well-formulated moisturizer first. Skin is complex, and needs a combination of complex ingredients to be its best, especially when treating sensitive skin, acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. Relying on a single oil or even single product won't do your face any favors, so keep your expectations realistic. If you have stubborn, dry, flaky patches and your moisturizer isn't helping (especially during colder months), then perhaps consider adding a facial oil to your routine at night before your moisturizer. Oils are applied very sparingly, a few drops on your fingertips and press into the skin. Use them night only or on days where you aren't outside and exposed to sun since they can dilute how effective your SPF is. Theres really no right or wrong way to layer them with your moisturizer, but my first suggestion is to press them onto moist skin after washing. Jojoba, grape seed, avocado, almond and safflower are all excellent options and be sure to avoid fragrant oils. 

THE 101: Coconut Oil

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There was a Chris Rock joke on one of his comedy specials that went something like "When I was a kid, we didn't have insurance, so my Dad just got into the habit of putting Robitussin on everything, and I mean everythingggg! Dad, I got asthma. Take some Robitussin! Dad, I broke my leg. Put some Robitussin on it, let it sink in there." 

Is coconut oil the new robitussin? 

I can't flip through a magazine or read an interview where someone isn't swearing by coconut oil for everything and anything. Coconut water for hangover, sure! Coconut oil for deodorant, hmm not trying that one.  Let's cut to the facts..

The most intriguing components are fatty acids (primarily lauric, myristic and palmitic acid), polyphenols, vitamins K and E, and iron. This makes coconut oil not only moisturizing but naturally anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and anti-bacterial. Theres not enough research to compare this to using a medicinal preparation for skin problems like acne or eczema, but its nice to know it can have some soothing benefit when applied to skin.

I tested some of the popular ways to use coconut oil with two brands. The lower-priced option was Dr. Bronner's Fair Trade & Organic White Kernel Virgin Coconut Oil, and my luxury pick was RMS Beauty's Raw Coconut Cream. They both felt and smelled exactly the same, however the RMS comes in really beautiful packaging. A little goes a long way with this stuff, don't go nuts. (sorry not sorry)

 

Heres what i tried and liked:

  • makeup remover: i put a dab of this on a cotton pad to remove mascara. it totally worked with no irritation, but i did have a little residue of the oil even after cleansing my face.
  • hair smoother: loved! a tiny bit kept my ends shiny and glossy looking.              
  • shaving cream: this was by far the best shave I've ever got. wash first, rinse, then shave. there will be a little oil lingering after, but hey, I'm moisturized, so thats one less product I'm putting on after a shower!
  • and balm/cuticle oil: soaks in beautifully 
  • massage oil: brought this to my masseuse to try on me instead of her usual massage cream, we both loved it, although i noticeably smelled like a cookie for the rest of the day.

 

Bottom Line: If one was stranded on a desert island, this is all very exciting information. However its still just ONE ingredient, which is why I personally wouldn't rely on this for my cure-all. Our skin is so smart and so complex, why not nourish, treat and feed it with multiple state of the art ingredients.