Faux Glow

It's mid-summer here in NYC, and while that means ice cream festivals (yes, this is a real thing) and more outdoor brunches, it also means shorter hemlines and sleeveless everything. Unless you are Dita Von Teese, some of us just look a little better with a sun-kissed glow. We know to stay away from tanning beds and to wear SPF, but there must be a way to meet in the middle... Enter self tanning!

PREP: 

• Take a CSI style shower a few hours before hand; shave, exfoliate really well with either a non-oil based scrub or washcloth/loofah.

• Dab moisturizer on knees and elbows so self tanner doesn't make those areas too dark.

• Throw a dark sheet on your bed the first night you apply it, or sleep in dark PJ's.

APPLICATION TIPS: 

• If your tanner comes with a little applicator mitt, use it! Or try a tanner applicator glove. 

• Dry for at least 10 minutes, longer if possible, before getting dressed or going to bed.

• For hard to reach areas, if you don't have a friend or hubby to help with your back, my Macguyver trick is to put the tanning mitt over my body brush. to get my back. Voila!

• Don't rub too much, gentle smoothing is all you need, let the tanner do the work.

• Try sanitizing wipes or hand sanitizer to clean the bottoms of your hands and between your fingers and toes.

• For self tanning novices: watch a video! https://www.sttropeztan.com/application-videos

TO FIX MISTAKES:

• If you didn't use a glove, and didn't wash your hands fast enough, try exfoliating the area with a scrub a few times. There are also fake tan removers or you can try rubbing half a lemon on the area. 

MAKE IT LAST:

• Moisturize! The drier your skin, the faster and more uneven your tan will fade. As long as you moisturize right after a shower, your tan will last and fade evenly.

I'm always trying new tanners, but there's a few staples that have made it onto my holy grail list:

VITA LIBERATA TAN MOUSSE  its a foam, dries in a minute, and no lingering smell. Try it a few nights in a row for color that lasts a long time. I'm talking weeks. Plus its kim k's fave, and her tan always looks perfect.

ST. TROPEZ Anything this company does is goddess level bronze. There are sprays, mouses, lotions, even a new dry oil formula. 

JAMES READ SLEEP MASK TAN This actually smells really good, but there is no telltale tanner smell; and its loaded with great ingredients for your skin too! 

BARE MINERALS FAUX TAN FACE Another 'faces only' tanner. Amazing ingredients, and natural looking. 

THE 101: Laser Hair Removal

How does it work?

The short version: a concentrated light energy from the laser gets absorbed by the pigment in the hair, which damages the follicle. Doing this multiple times will result in damage to the follicle, and in turn slowing down hair growth, thinning out the hair, and eventually prohibiting growth.

Does it hurt?

Absolutely, but in all the years I've been performing this treatment, not one patient has ever not been able to finish a session. It feels like a light rubber band snap, a little easier then getting a wax. Some areas hurt more then others, but it's such a quick process, and it's totally worth it. Taking an advil 20 minutes before can help with this.

Is it for me?

This depends. The best candidates have light skin and dark hair, laser works quickest on this combination, but darker skin can be treated too. Unfortunately there are no lasers (yet!) to treat red hair, blonde hair, and grey hair. If you have very sensitive skin, or a history of hyperpigmentation, you can ask for a "patch test".

What areas can I laser?

Anywhere! Bikini area and underarms are the most popular areas to treat, as the hair tends to be thickest in those spots and responds really well. I've lasered everything from patients ears to butt cracks.

How many treatments will I need?

Results vary from person to person. I tell patients they are going to need at least six treatments. However you will see results after just two treatments. After those first few initial treatments, your hair will be lighter, and sparser. Treatments are done every 4 to 6 weeks to make sure we get hairs in their growth cycle. 

How much does it cost?

Most offices will charge by the area being treated. One bikini session can run between $250 to $400 per session. Larger areas like full legs can be between $800 to $1200 per session. Packages to save some money are almost always available. While I'm all for getting a great deal, do your research on local options. The most reliable option is to visit your dermatologist or medical doctors office, or a medspa as long as there is a doctor on site. 

Is there anything I have to do before?

Yes, but its easy! Shave the day before your treatment. The hair follicle has to be intact, so no waxing or plucking for weeks before a treatment, but shaving is always ok. Also, you can't have a real or even fake tan before the procedure, or you can run the risk of skin discoloration. 

What can I expect after?

Your skin will be a little pink, blotchy, and sometimes a little bumpy. This is normal and goes away in a few hours but could last up to two days. After about a week, the hair dislodges from the follicle and you will be hair free for one to two months. When it starts to grow back, just shave until your next treatment session. 

Will it last forever?

The results can be permanent, but there is no way to get every hair. After about six sessions, you can expect about 75-80% of the hair to be gone forever. Any hair that is left will be really thin, sparse and very manageable. There can be possible re-growth from pregnancy or certain types of hormone related issues.

THE 101: Face Oils

Every few years theres a new beauty phenomenon. You'll start reading about a coveted luxury version in magazines, see it mentioned multiple times on a popular blog, and finally a inexpensive option is on your drugstore shelves. Usually these trends are just a newly packaged version of a product that already exists (as in your BB cream is really just a glorified tinted moisturizer) and facial oils are no different. Most facial oil ingredients have been around for decades in your favorite serums and moisturizers, but now they are available as a stand alone oil based product.

THE SCIENCE 

Oils can pass through the lipid layer of skin, so they can be better at preventing moisture loss then a cream. While many oils are packed with antioxidants to create a protective layer over the skin, some do contain fragrant oils (citrus, jasmine, lavender, etc) which you want to avoid on the face because they can have potential to irritate skin and be phototoxic to skin when exposed to sunlight (as in cause discoloration).

THE BOTTOM LINE

These are not a must have skin care staple. Try a well-formulated moisturizer first. Skin is complex, and needs a combination of complex ingredients to be its best, especially when treating sensitive skin, acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. Relying on a single oil or even single product won't do your face any favors, so keep your expectations realistic. If you have stubborn, dry, flaky patches and your moisturizer isn't helping (especially during colder months), then perhaps consider adding a facial oil to your routine at night before your moisturizer. Oils are applied very sparingly, a few drops on your fingertips and press into the skin. Use them night only or on days where you aren't outside and exposed to sun since they can dilute how effective your SPF is. Theres really no right or wrong way to layer them with your moisturizer, but my first suggestion is to press them onto moist skin after washing. Jojoba, grape seed, avocado, almond and safflower are all excellent options and be sure to avoid fragrant oils. 

Here's three that are excellent options:

• Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing Facial Oil 

• Estee Lauder Nutritous Radiant Vitality Essence Oil 

• Sunday Riley Juno Hydroactive Cellular Face Oil 

THE 101: Coconut Oil

There was a Chris Rock joke on one of his comedy specials that went something like "When I was a kid, we didn't have insurance, so my Dad just got into the habit of putting Robitussin on everything, and I mean everythingggg! Dad, I got asthma. Take some Robitussin! Dad, I broke my leg. Put some Robitussin on it, let it sink in there." 

Is coconut oil the new robitussin? 

I can't flip through a magazine or read an interview where someone isn't swearing by coconut oil for everything and anything. Coconut water for hangover, sure! Coconut oil for deodorant, hmm not trying that one.  Let's cut to the facts..

The most intriguing components are fatty acids (primarily lauric, myristic and palmitic acid), polyphenols, vitamins K and E, and iron. This makes coconut oil not only moisturizing but naturally anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and anti-bacterial. Theres not enough research to compare this to using a medicinal preparation for skin problems like acne or eczema, but its nice to know it can have some soothing benefit when applied to skin.

I tested some of the popular ways to use coconut oil with two brands. The lower-priced option was Dr. Bronner's Fair Trade & Organic White Kernel Virgin Coconut Oil, and my luxury pick was RMS Beauty's Raw Coconut Cream. They both felt and smelled exactly the same, however the RMS comes in really beautiful packaging. A little goes a long way with this stuff, don't go nuts. (sorry not sorry)

Heres what i tried and liked:

• makeup remover: i put a dab of this on a cotton pad to remove mascara. it totally worked with no irritation, but i did have a little residue of the oil even after cleansing my face.
• hair smoother: loved! a tiny bit kept my ends shiny and glossy looking.              
• shaving cream: this was by far the best shave I've ever got. wash first, rinse, then shave. there will be a little oil lingering after, but hey, I'm moisturized, so thats one less product I'm putting on after a shower!
• and balm/cuticle oil: soaks in beautifully 
• massage oil: brought this to my masseuse to try on me instead of her usual massage cream, we both loved it, although i noticeably smelled like a cookie for the rest of the day.

Bottom Line: If one was stranded on a desert island, this is all very exciting information. However its still just ONE ingredient, which is why I personally wouldn't rely on this for my cure-all. Our skin is so smart and so complex, why not nourish, treat and feed it with multiple state of the art ingredients.